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Old 02-09-2014, 01:58 PM   #1
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Whoa Rear Camber Dood Plus Other Stuff

So Ive got some pretty gnarly negative camber and toe going on in the rear (bcuz race car). The measurements are...

Drivers side -1.7 camber and -0.85 toe
Passenger side -1.1 camber and -0.44 toe

Im looking at the shims from genuinesaab and was wondering if anyone had suggestions for what thickness I should get. Car is on stock springs and Im looking to it back to factory spec. (because good tire wear). Tanks!
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:07 PM   #2
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Your camber is almost too low. Its negative 1.6 to 2.0 degrees but your toe is a little out. The shim width has a specific amount of camber/toe you can add or take out per width. It should say on the GS site
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:12 PM   #3
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Does anyone know what the factory calls for the alignment?
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:29 AM   #4
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That camber doesnt' seem bad. Toe need correcting, though.

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Old 02-10-2014, 09:49 AM   #5
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Just a lot of neg. camber on rear tires won't wear them funny.
Bad toe will. I think my 9-3 used to have -2.2 or something like that, and it never wore funny. either way, get the shims and straighten it out; That'll fix your feathered/scalloped/loud tires.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:47 PM   #6
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That camber doesnt' seem bad. Toe need correcting, though.


Fantastic thank you!


Also The car has a tdo4 with what looks to be the t25 lines and and oil feed is leaking pretty good, what size copper washer should I be getting?
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:10 AM   #7
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I want to say 14mm, but it's been a long time...
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:19 AM   #8
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i wouldnt bother with the GS shims.
just buy some metal body shim from an auto parts store.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:18 AM   #9
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Excessive negative camber will wear the inside of the tire more than the outside, but it wont be all cupped and bumpy.

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Old 02-11-2014, 08:44 AM   #10
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If it's not a powered tire, the wear difference will be pretty minimal l for your average joe.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:46 AM   #11
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I guess what im trying to say is that it's less important on the rear tires on a fwd. They're not powering or steering the car, and are pretty much just being dragged along
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:09 AM   #12
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I guess what im trying to say is that it's less important on the rear tires on a fwd. They're not powering or steering the car, and are pretty much just being dragged along
+1, with "dragged" being what happens if there is too much toe-in. That will eat the inner edges way faster than neg camber, especially on un-driven/un-steered rear wheels.

Uneven wear like the above from neg camber is usually avoided by rotating tires (at least for me, so far)
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:36 PM   #13
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Okay fellas Ive got running issues with that infernal horseless engine thingmabob.
Car is dieing while coming to a stop and Im getting a delayed throttle response in 1st. The vac lines are shit and will be replaced tomorrow along with the iac getting a cleaning too.
I also have new plugs to go in as well. Whats the method of failure experienced with the tps though? Whats the best way to test it with my fluke meter?
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