Where is the Radiator Drain Plug Located on 9-3?-How to do a Coolant Flush - The Saab Link Forums

Go Back   The Saab Link Forums > Saab NG900 '94-'98 and 9-3 '99-'02 Forum > Car Problems? NG900 or old 9-3 Only

Car Problems? NG900 or old 9-3 Only If you're experiencing problems with your NG900 or 9-3, post your question in here. CEL Code or GTFO!

SaabLink.net is the premier Saab Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-01-2011, 05:26 PM   #1
Flirting With TSL Addiction
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 623
Question Where is the Radiator Drain Plug Located on 9-3?-How to do a Coolant Flush

I'm having a BIG time issue trying to find the darn drain plug on the rad. Does anyone have a photo or something I can see that will show me precisely where it is located?

Couple of questions:

1) I see many different ways people drain/flush out the fluid when they do a change. I'm essentially doing all new hoses so I think I'm getting most of the fluid out as it is. What do you all do as a general change?

2) Why are those shields, the plastic things just underneath the front most part of the car, there? Are they there for aerodynamics, protection of road debris, etc.? There are two cutouts on each corner so obviously it's not total protection which is why I'm curious what exactly they do.

3) What do people use to get those REALLY annoyingly placed clamps off the hoses? By this, I mean the heater core hose, for example, is literally upside down! I cannot even get some baby vices in there! I know there is that tool that is PERFECT for these types of jobs, but is there anything else people have done to get the job done such as say, tiny long nose needle based pliers or that tool a true must have since I personally cannot get the heater hose into engine one off, and that one on the lower Rad hose looks downright scary with like 5 hoses/wires running all over the place)

4) What is that hose that runs from the turbo to the intercooler called? I wish I had ordered it. Mine looks like it's doomed. I have not investigated it enough, but it is fraying on a couple of sections, but I think I'd be able to tell if it was ripped by a loss in power or something similar, etc.


Even if you can only answer a single question, it's ok)!!! I'm mainly in need of help with the radiator section as this is the primary thing I am working through right now.


Thanks all!!!
Progression is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-01-2011, 07:28 PM   #2
SAAB Road Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 358
Most of us just take the lower radiator hose off to drain the coolant. The drain plug is in a very awkward place, and it drains slowly, so it's easier and faster to take the lower hose off. You'll probably want to do a flush. To do that, take the upper hose off of the engine and stick your garden hose nozzle in there. Blow water through the radiator until it runs clean. Next, take off the thermostat housing, take the thermostat out, replace the thermostat housing, and reconnect the upper hose to the housing. Blow water through the engine until it runs clear out of the water pump.

The shields do both. They keep dirt off of the bottom of the engine and they're aerodynamic. I'm not sure exactly why they have the big cut-outs on the side, but I know that on a Viggen, it makes getting to the fog lights a lot easier.

Sears has a really cool tool for remotely squeezing hose clamps. It has a pair of jaws that you snake down and put around the clamp. There are a pair of cables that run to the handles that you squeeze, and presto! The clamps are released! I don't have one of those, since it's about $40, but I thought it was the coolest thing when I saw it. I have a bunch of right-angle pliers, very long nose pliers, and all sorts of others that seem to get the job done. I'd replace the squeeze clamps with normal stainless steel hose clamps that you can get to with a ratchet, screwdriver, or nut driver.

It's just called an intercooler hose.
Jeremy R. is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-01-2011, 07:29 PM   #3
srp
Elder
 
srp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northwestern NJ
Posts: 5,111
Send a message via AIM to srp
Edit: Jeremy beat me.

Drain plug: Drivers side of the radiator. All the way down the bottom(obviously).

When I replaced my water pump, I replaced every single hose and the thermostat. I also flushed out the system with water and used a wet/dry vac to suck out the water.

If your replacing all the hoses, skip using the drain plug and just pull the bottom hose to drain the coolant. Do the thermostat as well.

Heat core hoses, remove the clamps at the firewall from below. They are above the cat, so make sure the car is sufficiently cooled down.

No special tool for worm gear clamps, screw driver or nut driver. Sometimes a 1/4 ratchet with a shit ton of extensions and the proper socket. Replace the squeeze clamps with regular clamps!

Plastic shields are for aerodynamics and to be sure air is channeled through the radiator. They also prevent some things from getting kicked up and damaging important bits.

The hose from the turbo to the intercooler is typically called the hot side intercooler hose.

Also, you may want to list what care you talking about either in your post, signature or profile.

Last edited by srp; 11-01-2011 at 07:32 PM.
srp is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 11-01-2011, 09:05 PM   #4
Elder
 
VWSAABVT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lima Ohio
Posts: 3,061
Send a message via AIM to VWSAABVT

this may come in handy for a drain
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
stg 5 99 9-3 coupe
96 900se sold
VWSAABVT is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-02-2011, 04:38 PM   #5
Flirting With TSL Addiction
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 623
What a day of pure hell! Since there's no Sears around here, I had to go find a few sets of Pliers (different lengths). I thought getting the hoses off was the toughest part due to location of some of the clamps but boy was I wrong!

The reason why I did all the hosing is because my heater core hose ripped. That thing was the very last to come off and guess what? Not sure if there's some lube, but this hose is literally so tight (mis-aligned because I cannot rotate , move, do anything at all with the thing!). Is there anything that can be done in order to get the thing moving a little better? I swear it feels like it needs to be in a mega vice locking device to get it to move.

Thanks a lot for all the help! I just hope once she fires up I didn't hack or break anything along the way to cause any problems because in spite the heater coolant hose was ripped terribly, car felt the cleanest/smoothest I have felt in such a long time.
Progression is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-02-2011, 08:14 PM   #6
Elder
 
VWSAABVT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lima Ohio
Posts: 3,061
Send a message via AIM to VWSAABVT
are you trying to get it off or reposition the new one? if its the old one just split it with a razor blade to get it off
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
stg 5 99 9-3 coupe
96 900se sold
VWSAABVT is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-03-2011, 12:48 PM   #7
Live, eat, and sleep by TSL
 
snowsaab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 1,425
heater core hose can be a real bitch. I blew mine in august, was a ROYAL pain in the ass. To get it off, just take a razorblade as mentioned and just split it off, if trying to put on the new one, i used alot of spit and coolant to coat the inside of the hose and the outside of the barb stickin out of the engine and the one coming out of the firewall to help slip on the hose. I had to get really forcefull with it and my hands hurt after a while, between that and put the clamp back on....i reused the same clamp and was trying to manuever needle nose pliers in there. Hope i dont ever have to do that again.....
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'01 9-3 Vert Stg 2/e85

Quote:
dont make me photoshop a dick in your mouth
snowsaab is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-03-2011, 02:07 PM   #8
Flirting With TSL Addiction
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by VWSAABVT View Post
are you trying to get it off or reposition the new one? if its the old one just split it with a razor blade to get it off
See what Snowsaab said as it sounds like we both had it tough with this one. Getting the hose off and back on was a major pain. When getting it off, I did a last resort type thing and took the PS main pump out of the way and got the pliers onto the clamp, removed it, and the hose came off no sweat.

Here's the issue with getting it back on:

The diameter is incorrect. I'll try and describe it. So we see the part of the block the hose has to attach to. When we put the hose onto this piece, the internal part of the hose is barely too small to fit around it. Not only this, but the pipe/piece the hose fits around grows a tiny bit in diameter so once you do have the hose onto the pipe, the hose will have to continue to stretch its way onto the pipe.

The only logical reasoning I can think of with respect to this design is:

1) The hose needs to be a certain diameter and stretchiness in order to expand as it goes onto the block piece. It can also be that the hose needs to be smaller so it is able to apply enough closure in the opening area to keep the fluid running straight rather than seeping up into that hosing area. This is why I feel you could get away without using a clamp on this and only this hose.

2) The hose was not made correctly and fitament is off. I never measured its diameter and I obviously questioned why it would not fit like every other hose did, but I also figured that if it's supposed to work and it's not some severely defectively designed hose, it should work.

Now I just have to figure out what exactly I can do in order to possibly get the hose onto the pipe entirely OR to even pull the hose off, re-align since I don't think I aligned it properly though another argument can be that it is such a clumsy tight fitted hose that once it is on the pipe completely, alignment will be irrelevant.
Progression is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-03-2011, 02:13 PM   #9
Flirting With TSL Addiction
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsaab View Post
heater core hose can be a real bitch. I blew mine in august, was a ROYAL pain in the ass. To get it off, just take a razorblade as mentioned and just split it off, if trying to put on the new one, i used alot of spit and coolant to coat the inside of the hose and the outside of the barb stickin out of the engine and the one coming out of the firewall to help slip on the hose. I had to get really forcefull with it and my hands hurt after a while, between that and put the clamp back on....i reused the same clamp and was trying to manuever needle nose pliers in there. Hope i dont ever have to do that again.....
I'm glad I'm not the only one to deal with this thing. I made another post below. Did you find that the new hose did not fit over the opening and is why you had to lube it and "stretch" it around the opening in order to force fit the thing? EVERY other hose in the rad system is a direct no frills fit. Not a single other hose, the other side of the heater core hose included, had one slight issue. But this one is a total nightmare. At this point, it's on soooo tight I was thinking of even running coolant through the system, maybe the heat would get the pipe to stretch a little, and then ram it on during this time. I swear even with it only on a bit of the way, it would never have any issues staying on for years! I could possible get some coolant under the hose, but at this point, I'm trying to figure out what exactly I need to do in order to even lift that hose up and get some lube onto it and the pipe it is fitted onto!??!!!???
Progression is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-23-2015, 04:37 PM   #10
SAABeginner
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Reading all this, I was prepared to pull the lower hose to drain the system. Having replaced the lower and upper hose 6 months ago, I was dreading pulling it again. It's tight down there and several other parts need to be removed.

Instead I found the drain plug and easily opened it. It not hard to get to if you have a 14 mm deep-well socket and a 6 in extension. Easy off/easy on. Need a good light and reach from the bottom with the plastic shield off.

I wouldn't mess with the lower hose imless I had to.
Patpras is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Saab Link Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Vehicle Info.
Enter your vehicle information (year, model, mods)
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
All content is copyright The Saab Link and it's original authors.


 

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.