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Old 03-13-2010, 08:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by dan-the-kid View Post
This may be a long shot, but heres something to ponder.

I assume nation wide as winter rolls around, all gas mixes are changed to preserver the gas for the winter with additives.

Winter is coming to an end and, going back to, perhaps, "cleaner" fuel. Just taking some time for the car to realize the difference and it got more power then it was excepting..

Gas.
I would not have thought of that point, however I am not sure if that would be an issue in Southern California... I am pretty sure the clean air people here keep the level of additives pretty constant.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:45 PM   #22
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Yeah, probably.

Its just one of those things that people usually overlook when trying to diagnose problems.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:51 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by christian900se View Post
I would not have thought of that point, however I am not sure if that would be an issue in Southern California... I am pretty sure the clean air people here keep the level of additives pretty constant.
From the CARB faq:

Quote:
2. How much oxygen is required in California gasoline?

There is a minimum oxygen content requirement of 1.8 percent by weight for the South Coast area and Imperial County, from November 1st through February 29th. Outside of that requirement, refiners have the option to put from 0-3.5 percent by weight oxygen (0-10 volume percent ethanol) in CaRFG3.
Shot in the dark, but maybe you're on your first tank of gas since a change over? (Assuming "South Coast" area includes west LA, which I assume it does.)

ETA, now we know what MN puts in "the water"...

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Old 03-13-2010, 09:06 PM   #24
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Well, it was the same tank of gas before and after I reset the ECU and first experienced this cut. Before = no cuts (ever), After = cuts.

Thanks for posting that information, it makes for an interesting read. I want my northeast 93 octane back!
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:49 PM   #25
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Just ordered 8 plugs and a dipstick seal (mine is missing a piece and blowing a bit of oil) from eeuro. I am going to try and go to the Saab meet in Santa Monica tomorrow morning so I will try and see if there is anything in particular which triggers the cut.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:01 PM   #26
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Did cleaning the BPC help?
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christian900se View Post
Just ordered 8 plugs and a dipstick seal (mine is missing a piece and blowing a bit of oil) from eeuro. I am going to try and go to the Saab meet in Santa Monica tomorrow morning so I will try and see if there is anything in particular which triggers the cut.
You going to meet everyone at Walters shop?

I'll be there.
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:39 AM   #28
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I huge as well replaced almost everything, my car was actually running perfect with the set up then one day it started doing this. I have made a thread about this before
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:03 AM   #29
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Did cleaning the BPC help?
Nope, I bought a can of WD40 this morning and cleaned out the BPC (no dirty or anything came out) went for a quick drive since I had a seminar to go to and it cut once.

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You going to meet everyone at Walters shop?

I'll be there.
I was really looking forward to going but I had a genetics seminar this morning at 7:30 that I was forced to go to. I am going to call Luca right now since I just got out to see how long you guys will be there.

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I huge as well replaced almost everything, my car was actually running perfect with the set up then one day it started doing this. I have made a thread about this before
The plot thickens. I hate having problems like this because I know there is nothing wrong with the hardware on my car, and I have spent enough money chasing issues that I was told were hardware problems and ended up being something completely different.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:24 PM   #30
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When was the last time you checked your base boost?
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:58 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christian900se View Post
Here is my setup, I should have mentioned it earlier rather than assume I talk about my car enough haha.

-50# injectors
-T28 turbo
-JSP intercooler
-JSP 3" ss exhaust
-JZW tune
-New fuel pump
-New plugs
-All the other little things like intake, BOV, non power adders
-35,000 miles on the odo.

One thing to note: it has never had one hiccup for the year and a half I have run this very same tune on this ECU which is why I found it odd.
Hey christian i thought you were running a td04 in your auto? threadjack, did you buy a t28 or did you have your t25 sent in too a shop and get the bigger compressor wheel and what not (idk whats involved in making t25 a t28 ) and jw what did it run you price wise and what company did u get it done by

-cody
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Quote:
Hell yeah. All the FWD caddys have roll races like all damn day. Then the cruise over to 'Luca's house for some hard parking and body work tips.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:07 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by LeGiT SaaB View Post
When was the last time you checked your base boost?
A couple months ago just to make sure it was set to 7 lbs for this very issue, nothing has changed since. I always am conservative on how much base boost I run, although John recommended setting the WG for 9 lbs of base boost.

Quote:
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Hey christian i thought you were running a td04 in your auto? threadjack, did you buy a t28 or did you have your t25 sent in too a shop and get the bigger compressor wheel and what not (idk whats involved in making t25 a t28 ) and jw what did it run you price wise and what company did u get it done by

-cody
I had Chadwick build a T25 up since he had one sitting at his shop, it is a true T28 with the cold and hot sides bored with larger wheels, a 360 thrust bearing, and it was rebuilt so it was for all intents and purposes a brand new turbo.

I decided to go T28 because it was not really feasible to take my TD04 off, but I am very glad I went with the T28 setup since it is pretty much right on the money for spooling and power potential in my opinion.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:11 PM   #33
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I went on a 30 mile Malibu Canyon run with the Socal Saabers and I did not get any fuel cut despite pushing the car harder than I ever had in my ownership. I am confused lol.


Something to think about; I was talking to some Saab guys about the driveability issues and the idea was brought up that because the front o2 sensor is pulled further out of the exhaust stream than on a stock DP (same issue as the rear inactivity code I was fighting), it might affect part throttle driveability. This makes sense to me, and I figure if anyone thinks this is a good train of thought, I will give it a shot.
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:16 PM   #34
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how much did chad charge you. Im debating down the road if i would spend the money on a td04 or spend the extra cash and get t28 upgrade
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Hell yeah. All the FWD caddys have roll races like all damn day. Then the cruise over to 'Luca's house for some hard parking and body work tips.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:50 PM   #35
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I spent $500 shipped, a very good deal because he had a spare T25 that had been a previous job which someone pulled out of. He does a fantastic job though, I highly recommend him.
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Old 03-14-2010, 07:00 PM   #36
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i more n00b questions whats the comparison of the t28, is it better flowing and rated for more horse power then a td04-15, is it even better then a td04 18?
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Hell yeah. All the FWD caddys have roll races like all damn day. Then the cruise over to 'Luca's house for some hard parking and body work tips.
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:14 PM   #37
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The T28 is more comparable to the TD04 19t, and from what I have heard slightly faster spooling. I would go with whatever is most convenient for you to have sent off to be rebuilt, but a T25 would be far cheaper and more plentiful than a TD04 to buy if you need a core for upgrading.
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:58 AM   #38
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Turbo Bucks When Accelerating Into Boost

Bucking on hard acceleration into boost is most often caused by a faulty APC solenoid/Boost Solenoid. The solenoid is located on the top driver side of the engine radiator on most Saabs. When the solenoid fails it will allow excessive boost pressure which then leads to the over boost circuit being completed shutting the fuel pump off. The 9000 has a over boost switch which is designed to shut off the fuel pump in the event of excessive boost pressure as a safety measure to prevent the engine from blowing up during boost failures.

Note: In most cases Excessive boost problems come from Turbo hose vacuum leaks or faulty Wastegates (not common though)

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Old 03-15-2010, 05:25 PM   #39
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Well, I have a possible route to pursue on the driveability issues; one of the guys at the Socal Saab meet yesterday mentioned that the front o2 sensor bung was pretty far out (1/2 inch, same as the rear) and could be causing the part throttle issues I have been experiencing.

I figure I can have another shorter bung welded right after that so I can fit the upstream sensor further into the exhaust and have a spare bung for a wideband in the process. What do you guys think?
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Old 03-24-2010, 04:01 PM   #40
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Update and resolution: I ordered new spark plugs, made sure they were gapped properly, and installed them in the car. The fuel cut is gone and it is back to normal so I think I might have had a bad set of plugs or some bad gas because between a fresh tank and new plugs, it fixed the cutting out at the top of 2nd going into 3rd.

Thanks for the help guys!
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