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Old 10-06-2008, 08:02 AM   #1
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Adjusting clutch pedal

So my '98 has the hydraulic clutch, but it has never been right since I swapped motors. It was horrible, then I adjusted and aligned the linkage which helped some but its still not right.

It seems as if the clutch is not being engauged all the way. I have bleed the system via the bleed valve ontop of the trans and nothing changed.

I have not had a Saab hydraulic clutch car before, with that in mind how much play is in the pedal before it feels like pressure is building. Mine gives a good few inches before any resistance is built. It doesnt seem like there should be that much play though. Is there a way to adjust the pedal?
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:08 PM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:19 PM   #3
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hmm seeing as I haven't driven the crashed up 9-3 in a while I can't give a first hand answer, but from what I remember there isn't and shouldn't be much play.

The setup in these cars is not Ideal for bleeding, the bleed nipple is at the transition between the rubber and hard line and your not bleeding down by the slave cylinder rather just the rubber line. A pressure bleeder definitely helped me (remember I had the trans in and out of my car more than a few times).

Also working the pedal a lot will help any air trapped in the slave cylinder to eventually work its way out the bleed nipple. It took me a few tries each time I put the trans back in the car.

Supposedly your supposed to pre-bleed the slave cylinder by compressing it and allowing it to suck in fluid before you install the trans back in the car.
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:41 PM   #4
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From the time I push the pedal, there is at least 2-3" of play before the pedal actually does anything toward the clutch.

I guess I'll just have to dig in one day. Was hoping to hear an answer so I could streamline the process.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:09 PM   #5
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yea no way should there be that much play. Is the master cylinder bolted up all tight? There may be a way to adjust the pedal, but the way I'm thinking about it in my head, is that all it would adjust is the pedal height, not actual pedal actuation. If that makes any sense to you.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:11 PM   #6
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It does. And that's what I'm worried about.

Sidenote: How the hell you been man, it's been a while.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:18 PM   #7
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Sidenote reply: doing pretty good, I now Have a new job (started today actually) which should give me a bit more time for Saab Related activities.
Also My parents are moving to Baltimore so if I am ever in the area I'll give ya a call.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:02 PM   #8
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When I did mine, I followed DIP's instuctions. I just kept trying to bleed the lines until the free movement went away. Each time it got a little better. I used to the bleed nipple on top also.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:14 PM   #9
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Are you using a pressure bleeder?
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:17 PM   #10
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defiantly sounds like bleeding issues

i've found Saab like dumb asses have put the bleed nipple on the lower side of the brake caliper etc, so it makes it near impossible to get a good pedal unless you are using a power bleeder.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:33 AM   #11
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You should bleed the salve cylinder out on the bench. If you do not it is nearly impossible to get all the air out.
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:29 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by GenuineSaab View Post
You should bleed the salve cylinder out on the bench. If you do not it is nearly impossible to get all the air out.
Even though the trans never left the car during the swap?

Here's what I did...

Pulled motor/trans out of the '96. Since its a cable activated clutch I took the trans off that motor.

I disconnected the trans from the '98 motor while still in the car. I took just the motor out, and installed just the motor from the '96.

I don't see a reason why I would have to bleed the slave. I'll do it anyway though, just gotta find time.
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:13 AM   #13
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Anyone have a good lead on a pressure bleeder? I have a DIY walkthough for one I might try to build.
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