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Old 10-29-2006, 03:52 PM   #1
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Rear motor mount

Last night my car started shuddering like it was going to stall out while shifting into gears. I thought that it was the clutch last night and I was pissed off.

This morning I went outside and drove it a little bit, and it was still doing it. The clutch wasn't slipping under heavy load though. I stopped the car and opened the hood. When I grabbed onto the throttle body and pulled the engine came up about 4 inches. I looked under the car while I had my friend do the same thing. The rear engine mount is seperated into two parts.

How long does it take to replace? and are there any special techniques to replacing it?
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:54 PM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:14 AM   #3
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Dude Dip is your friend check out his website. I spent 2 hours reading it on Saturday.

http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/2005...Engine_Mounts/
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can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
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Old 10-30-2006, 07:31 AM   #4
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cool, thanks tweek
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:05 AM   #5
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The mounts (any of them) should only run you about 2 hours of time at the most. Just make sure you properly support everything and go from there!
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:59 AM   #6
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I think once you gain access this shouldn't give you much trouble. Grab something to support the top of the engine with, or put a good block of wood on the oil pan with a jack and that should be okay too.

eEuro has the part for not too much cash.
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Old 10-30-2006, 11:50 AM   #7
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Already ordered the part from Eeuro last night and I will probably be doing it in one of the schools shops.
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Old 10-30-2006, 12:04 PM   #8
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Sorry didn't read this earlier.

While i was in NH two months ago, my motor mount dropped out while backing out from Dan (snow4_1man's) driveway. Basically, I got out.. saw a big rubber ball laying on the ground picked it up was like "uh what's this?" Dan says.. "thats your motor mount."

To remove/ install (with help from Dip's site):

1) With a series of long extensions attached to a ratchet, loosen the top bolt of the motor mount.
2) Raise the car and support w/ stands.
3) Loosen the lower 2 bolts of the mount.
4) With a jack and a peice of wood, raise the rear of the engine enough to remove the mount.
5) With the engine still raised, insert the new mount.
7) Lower the engine while making sure the upper bolt is aligned with the top hole.
6) Retighten the lower bolts (check Dip's site for the correct torque).
7) Lower the car.
8 ) Retighten the upper bolt.

This may not be the textbook way, but since i was replacing the passenger side engine mount as well, it worked just fine. Took maybe 20 minutes.
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Old 10-30-2006, 12:10 PM   #9
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careful about driving on it. it can put some extra stress on the shift linkage and cause it to fail as well. i had the old linkage on mine and the bushing would fail periodically, the bushing was only $8 but the labor was $200. just a heads up.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:24 PM   #10
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So I got the old mount out, but can't get the new one in. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:48 PM   #11
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So I got the old mount out, but can't get the new one in. Any suggestions?
Position a floorjack under the oil pan with a block of wood on it, for protection for the oil pan, and use it to raise the engine enough to position the rear engine mount into place and bolt it down, torqueing the bolts to the specified ft. lbs.

Then, slowly lower the floorjack until the rear engine bracket is resting firmly on the rear engine mount and then secure it with it's mounting nut.

This is assuming that you've already backed out the left and right forward engine mount's securing bolts approx. 1/2 of the way to allow some leeway for movement so that the engine can be easily raised with the floorjack.

Good luck, and keep up the good work.

Last edited by infamous; 11-03-2006 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:59 PM   #12
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I got it in, I never loosened up the other engine mount. I put the jack under the differential portion of the tranny and needed a half inch more to get the top post of the mount into the hole. So I just pried up on the transmission with a long extension and jammed the new mount in.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:37 PM   #13
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Now that's what they call "working it"!!

Congrats on the accomplishment, and the advice about loosening the forward engine mounts was more so to protect against damaging them by jacking on the block with them attached, possibly forcing them to twist/bind unnaturally, tearing they're bushings and causing them to prematurely deteriorate (so don't listen to me when I try to offer helpful advice, afterall, it's not like I actually know what I'm talking about or anything...), but hey, if ya made it work for you, you made it work for you!

Keep up the Saabing.

Last edited by infamous; 11-03-2006 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:51 PM   #14
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HELP - did not matter what I did, I could not get the rear mount to align to the hole on the trans bracket. Lowered subframe, hacked trans and got the new mount seated, but could not get it lowered on to bracket, nor could I push the mount up through the bracket hole while everything loose
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:03 PM   #15
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I believe it has an indexing nub that slips into a female slot. Either way, you gotta lower the subframe and jack the engine up and then use a whole bunch of swearing. I used Nick Talifierro's "performance" mount, which while flawed, was 10x easier to install.
The stock mount is an unholy PITA to get in...good luck!
-Cm
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