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Old 07-30-2017, 07:49 PM   #1
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Power window / convertible switch works randomly sometimes

I just picked up a 1997 Saab 900 SE convertible with a window/convertible switch that seems to work randomly. It worked at first and when I noticed the emergency flasher button was disconnected I plugged it in. Well the flashers worked but then the windows did not. I unplugged the flashers and the windows worked again. Well the next day the windows stopped again so I started checking wiring again and checking the window switch as I wiggled/unplugged things in the center console area and when I unplugged the 12v cig lighter the windows worked again. I then plugged the 12v cig back in and the windows still worked???? The next day I went out and tried the windows again and nothing, noda. The plug in the widow/convertible switch seems plugged in OK. Could it still be bad????
Anyone else with this type of issue?
Thanks,
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:31 AM   #2
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I have found several switchpacks that were covered in soda or other stuff because of their location in the center console. I think I would start by a dissasembly of the pack and clean up all of the contacts on the inside.
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Old 07-31-2017, 10:26 PM   #3
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switch pack cleaning

I have power at the plug to the switch so I decided to take apart the switch pack. I did find some burned looking contacts and sanded them clean and wiped of with alcohol. It needed cleaning. I double check power at the plug and connected the pack. Nothing. I turned off the car and went in to eat dinner then went to town. This time they all worked again. When I came home they still worked. We will see what tomorrow brings?????
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:42 AM   #4
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That is incredibly strange. Wonder if its ignition switch or ground related? Any other odd electrical issues?
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:42 AM   #5
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Nope. I have power when I test the plug to the switch both from the black ground wire or grounded to the frame. I am afraid to lower the top for fear it won't go back up........ I ordered a used, but working switch from Ebay as well to check. I figured $20 bucks was worth eliminating the possible bad switch. I will let you know that it does today. This thing has a few electrical issues. This is at the top of the list right now. The red exclamation mark is lit up as well as the SRS light, but no codes come up when I check with my OBll reader. From what I read it is most likely the horn assembly in the steering wheel.
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:50 PM   #6
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Well I turned on the car 3 times today but no power windows or top button work. I still have power to the plug though.
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Old 08-11-2017, 03:52 PM   #7
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Well I turned on the car 3 times today but no power windows or top button work. I still have power to the plug though.
Was that with the replacement switch installed?
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Old 08-11-2017, 05:58 PM   #8
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Can't say for sure but it sounds to me like you have a plug/wiring or ground issue (external to the switch pack). The switchpack may be bad too, but when you plug/unplug unrelated items on different circuits you're also moving the harness around which is making/disconnecting the break in your wiring. Multiple faults are possible and are super hard to troubleshoot sometimes.

I'd plug everything in and start gently moving/flexing/pushing/pulling the wiring to see what makes it start and stop working. You may have to remove some fasteners; sometimes temperature/humidity can influence partial contacts too.

When you have wiring breaks and poor/periodic contact, sometimes you can still measure voltage normally because the high impedance of your multimeter doesn't draw very much current at all; but the device still won't work under real load when the device is plugged back into the circuit. Like for motors, the wiring has to pass enough current to supply the inrush needs and overcome static friction to start moving, testing it you may see 12V, but the motor still won't work.
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:07 PM   #9
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Smile New switch pack installed

Well since I put the new pack in(which I took apart and cleaned first)the windows have work every time. I have lowered/raised the windows about 4 times. We'll see...........
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:32 AM   #10
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Yeah maybe that's it. Or maybe while putting in the new pack you bent the wiring in a way that's allowing it to maintain contact. Hope that was it and it keeps working for you, but when you describe plugging/unplugging electrically unrelated devices on totally different circuits as changing whether it works or not--with the only commonality being physically in the same general area--that indicates what I described..........
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:11 PM   #11
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Well I started the car and lowered the window 1 inch and pulled it up on ramps to replace a motor mount and when I started it up again the window would not go up. None of them work. The other day I received the rebuilt convertible motor and lowered and raised the roof 2 times with no problem. Now once again nothing works in the center window pack.
This can't be the first time this has happened. If there is 12 volts at the plug when I connect to the positive and ground and I know the window switch pack is good. What else can there be?????
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:03 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jtgrahams View Post
Well I started the car and lowered the window 1 inch and pulled it up on ramps to replace a motor mount and when I started it up again the window would not go up. None of them work. The other day I received the rebuilt convertible motor and lowered and raised the roof 2 times with no problem. Now once again nothing works in the center window pack.
This can't be the first time this has happened. If there is 12 volts at the plug when I connect to the positive and ground and I know the window switch pack is good. What else can there be?????
Huh, imagine that! Go up a few posts and re-read what I wrote. Especially the part where I describe how it's possible to measure 12V but still not have functioning motors.

The short summary is that you're probably looking at a partial wire break and/or corroded/partial ground--something is partially failed that is being influenced while you're in there moving things around.

A corroded sometimes-working power relay or something like that further upstream, or even ignition switch as was already mentioned, is something to consider too if you start to think the working/not working status is random and not related to things you're doing. I'd guess something more local considering that it seemed to have a pattern of working or not based upon plugging and unplugging unrealated things in the general area, like the flashers.
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Old 08-19-2017, 07:34 AM   #13
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I think Trionic 3000 is on this... your hazard light / cigarette lighter scenarios lean me back towards Trionic's post. But if you can't fix it by just wiggling wires at the switch, here's more info and systematic testing:

All window functions on the convertible go through the STCU. You could have power at the switch and the switch could be working but the STCU might still lock out the windows. Or, you could have a problem somewhere between the switch and the STCU and the window. However,

Get a copy of the WIS: WIS and EPC for Windows 10 - SaabCentral Forums . Dig into the wiring harness and learn how to find the diagrams for your window circuits as well as ground and exact connector locations and pin outs.

- If the STCU believes the top is not completely closed or open, it will lock out window movement. Check to see if the trunk un-lock works next time the windows stop working. If it does not work, it's likely the STCU cycle lock. We can work from there.

- You have power coming into the switch... check to see if you have power coming out. Use the WIS to identify the pins/wires out. If you have power in but don't have power out, the switch is (still) bad.

- If you do have power out, check to see if there's power at the connector on the STCU where it should arrive for that window. - It's behind the left rear trunk panel / over the wheel. If not, there's a problem in the circuit from switch to STCU. Check connectors in the line.

- If you have power arriving at the STCU asking to raise the window, but not power coming out of the STCU, then you have an STCU issue. Most common would be that a switch in the convertible mechanism is registering an odd value and the STCU is going into lock mode. But, I think from your last test that the top was still working and the windows were not, if so you can eliminate that as a possibility. The STCU would definitely lock out the top if there was a bad value coming from a switch in the top mechanism.

- If you have power at the right location arriving at the STCU, but not coming out, you might have a power or ground issue with the STCU. Check per the WIS. Discover where the ground connections are, and clean/check them... and make sure the power is there at the STCU on all pins where it's supposed to be.

- It's possible the STCU is bad, but that's very rare. The only test / solution is to replace it with a used one and have it set up with a Tech II.

- If you have power arriving at the STCU, and power coming out to go to the window(s), but they still don't work, then you have a wiring issue between the STCU output and the windows. Check connectors and grounds. Again, see the WIS.

NOTE: I recommend against pulling the STCU connector for testing while the battery is connected/ignition on: on the 900, the STCU can go into serious lock out if it sees that something is disconnected when it's powered up. If you go into serious lock mode you will need a Tech II to get the top working again. Safest choice is just to test at the connector with it all hooked up at all times (make sure it's grounded with a jumper if needed if you unbolt the STCU for easier access). It also should be perfectly safe to pull the STCU connector if the battery is disconnected to check continuity of wires. I also believe you're OK if the connector is completely disconnected when you turn the ignition on, but I can't guarantee that (never tested it) so be careful - or locate someone in your area with a Tech II ahead of time... and no matter what, have the top UP when you test so if it stops working, the top is already closed.

Last edited by BobSabbert; 08-19-2017 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:01 PM   #14
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I think we found the problem

Well the TSAS module located in the left trunk area for the soft top and window controls had some corrosion on the plug going into it. Depending on the bumps and what not it made enough of an connection at times but failed other times. Time will tell. I will update you at a later date if it continues to work.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:59 PM   #15
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Angry Nope, Nawda, Not working

Well I went to pick up the car at the shop and as soon as I got in the window pack did not work. $120 down the drain. The windows worked the next time I started the car then didn't than did. The mechanic said the TSAS computer had a sticker on it saying it was replaced so I don't know. I do know if I start the car and nothing works it stays that way no mater how many times I try the window button. If they work then they keep working until I turn off the car. Sometimes they work 3 or 4 times in a row when I start the car. Maybe the TSAS doesn't initialize proper sometimes when the key is turned on??
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Old 09-03-2017, 10:25 AM   #16
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A bad TSAS is rare, but it's possible. If yours was replaced, that would be two bad ones, which is even more odd. I wonder if someone was previously trying to solve the same problem and replaced it in the hope that was it...

If you replace it, you'll need to have someone with a Tech II (or an ISAT, the previous generation) who knows the 'vert roofs run through programming the various positions.

I'd be inclined to go back through the checks I mentioned, laborious as it might be, the next time it doesn't work and you have the time to do it. That's probably better than throwing parts at it.
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