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Old 05-14-2015, 09:02 AM   #1
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2K viggen idle/running issues

My Viggen has been acting up recently

When the car idles the RPM's do not stay constant, it kinda lurches making the car shake a bit before it settles out again for a few seconds then lurches almost like a stall

For a while when accelerating partial throttle less then 50% the car also lurches and does not develop smooth power like it use to

When driving a few nights ago it was acting when cruising at a constant speed. I was only going 35mph and it would drop a mph or two before the power would come back.

Car is a 2K viggen, almost 156K miles

Any thoughts on what it could be? I was thinking of buying a new DI casette as well as a new mass air meter..... the mass air meter is 50-100K miles old, can't recall when it was swapped last. DI if I recall was replaced at 60K

I put new plugs in the car every 10K miles
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:33 AM   #2
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Start with the MAF. Surprising you aren't getting a code.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:10 AM   #3
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I'd do these in this order:

1. Check that MAF sensor is plugged in and contacts are clean, wire isn't damaged, etc., if ok
2. Check for any vacuum leaks including FPR reference line, and possible air delivery leaks like intercooler hose popped off or delivery pipe at throttle body partially popped off, if none
3. Trial a replacement throttle body
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 05-14-2015, 11:38 AM   #4
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Thanks for the input... I will look at those things a bit closer and start swapping parts. With the DI being old... Should I get a new one of those? I haven't been anywhere close to 100% throttle for many months due to how the car behaves

Yea... No codes...
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:18 PM   #5
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Who knows for sure? I've had DI's fail a few different ways but not like you're describing; I have had throttle bodies do exactly like you're describing and pipes blown off and forgetting to plug the MAF back in give similar symptoms..

I'd guess it's one if those things, post up what you find though! Knowing how well yoy maintain things my bet is worn throttlebody.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 05-15-2015, 05:36 AM   #6
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Wow, didn't realize the TBs could be that big of a wear issue Drew. Good to know.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:47 AM   #7
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Going to look over the engine tonight.... and check for leaks

This evening I will order a new throttle body & a MAF since it's also old..... debating on a new DI just to be safe.
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:37 PM   #8
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The DI's are so cheap now, I think it would be a good idea. Lots of people have bought them recently due to the low cost not thinking they needed one, then realized their car runs WAY better with the new DI!
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Old 05-15-2015, 04:04 PM   #9
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Before I buy the stuff... Any opinions on which DI I should get?

Eeuroparts has two options

Proparts at $199 .. Retail of $600 plus

Or

Oem Saab at $379, retail $440 ish
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:02 AM   #10
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Gary, there are deals on brand new OEM DI's for around $150-180 on rock auto, advance auto, auto zone. All of these sites offer coupon codes to save you a few bucks. They are usually listed as airtex/wells, but they are in fact showing up as brand new SEM parts, in most cases version E and very recent build dates.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:13 AM   #11
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Cheap/easy things first. Unplug maf and take it for a cruise, if it runs better, bingo. Replace plugs, cheap and easy. Like stated, check all around engine compartment for vacuum lines, ic hoses, etc... making sure they are not cracked, loose...
I wouldn't just go out and but a dic quite yet, do you know of someone that you can swap with, shop maybe?
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:28 PM   #12
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Plugs have 5,500 miles on them... Been replacing the plugs every 10k-15k miles

I looked over the engine and everything looks fine. No loose or disconnected vac lines or ic hoses... All looks good

Dic - now that I think of it I think I have one in my garage. I swapped my DI last summer when the car wouldn't start and I do not believe I ever swapped it back. The one I have is probably 8-10 years old....

Mpg has also been not so great. I average 19-22 mpg now with zero full throttle runs and a mix of city/highway. I use to get 22-25 mpg with similar driving. The computer states 27-28 mpg highway
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:39 AM   #13
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Coolant temp sensor?
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:11 PM   #14
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would a bad coolant temp sensor cause my fans to turn on after 30 seconds of idling.... the turn on/off constantly

Been to busy at work thus haven't ben able to mess with the old saab
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:14 PM   #15
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Mine will do that if the A/C compressor is set to come on and it's warm-ish out.
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:45 AM   #16
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Haven't had a chance to work on the car at all.... had a busy few weeks at work.... last night I had a late evening at work & either my radiator let go or a coolant hose.... hopefully get a chance to work on the car this evening

Once I figure out what let go last night I will order the other parts to hopefully get the car running better
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:54 AM   #17
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Radiator sprung a leak.... what a complete PITA to install....

ended up just ordering a new AMM which is suppose to arrive today. Hopefully that will fix some of the running issues....
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:55 PM   #18
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AMM arrived... Is installed.... Running better but still not 100%

It's a lot smoother however there is still some hesitation when accelerating part throttle and it almost acts like it's going to die at times when I shift
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:42 AM   #19
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What's the story with your bypass valve/BOV?
50% throttle sounds like EXACTLY the spot where a diaphram type bpv would flutter with zero-vacuum.

Do you use the solenoid or is there a line from the manifold to the valve?

I was having issues with mine. swapped to a metal piston-type that fits in the stock location, and ran the vacuum line straight to the manifold, and it was instantly worlds better.
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:51 AM   #20
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Did you already swap the radiator? Although it's a lot of parts, it's not terrible.
I'm convinced that you could remove it from the bay if you took the fans off first.
It's been forever since I've swapped one on a 9-3, though.

Make sure you buy a good-quality replacement. you Don't want to have to do this 2x
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