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Old 04-28-2015, 08:56 PM   #1
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Clutch Bleeding: Depressed Pedal Overnight Trick?

Hey all. So I've seen a million threads on this but they seem to have different methods. I replaced my clutch, slave, and master cylinder but I have very low engagement on my clutch (feels like an inch from the floor), but pressure is definitely there.
We did a vacuum bleed from the nipple and that helped a little. I searched and found this trick which apparently works, however, am I just supposed to have the reservoir cap off and a half way depressed pedal?
Some people are saying that in addition, I need to crack the bleeder and run a hose from the bleed nipple to the reservoir.
Is that part necessary? If the trick works, wouldn't air just move up the line to the reservoir anyway?

Thanks for the input.

EDIT: I will add that before the master cylinder was replaced, the clutch only returned about an inch from the floor. After the new one was installed, I have full clutch travel again...there's just more play than there used to be.
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:05 AM   #2
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59 views and no comments? C'mon fellas.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:33 AM   #3
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I've had good luck with both pressure and vacuum bleeding.. I used a spare brake reservoir cap and drilled a hole in the center. Put a tire valve stem through it, and used a bike pump to put pressure in the system (not too much, you'll fold the seals). Alot of people swear by gravity bleeding (attaching a hose and leaving it sit over night with the bleeder cracked.) But, I've never had any luck with it.

Whenever you're bleeding, make sure you follow through with the full range of the clutch pedal. When I bleed, I try to get the air out of the system without even pumping the pedal by using the pressure method. It takes about 3 minutes that way.

Is the car driveable currently?
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:07 PM   #4
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If you think that you are going to bleed it move than once ie brakes next time, or have a couple of buddies that will split the cost, get a Motive Products 0100. Its worth it, for both brakes and clutch. Works on Volvo, BMW, etc.

Brake Bleeder (Manual) - Motive Products 0100 - Free Shipping
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Old 04-30-2015, 03:09 PM   #5
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Is this equivalent to a Mityvac? Seems to be, and if so, I do own one. The Mityvac does 90% of the job but I usually have to finish up by going the old fashioned way.

Still surprised no one has commented on the trick though...
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Old 04-30-2015, 03:34 PM   #6
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Did you pre-bleed the slave cylinder?

Pressure bleeding combined with pumping the pedal in/out w/bleed screw cracked open has always worked for me.
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Old 04-30-2015, 04:57 PM   #7
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The answer is sort of, the Motive has a cap that goes over the brake cylinder and can few a few pints of fluid so usually no refill. Pump it and it pressures the cap vs mityvac which usually sucks thru the slave cylinder.

Echo pre-bleeding the slave as well and make sure that the fittings are tight.

I've seen the hose trick, make one end higher than the slave on a C900, never had any luck with the trick on a OG9-3.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForSwede View Post
Is this equivalent to a Mityvac? Seems to be, and if so, I do own one. The Mityvac does 90% of the job but I usually have to finish up by going the old fashioned way.

Still surprised no one has commented on the trick though...
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:16 AM   #8
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Did you pre-bleed the slave cylinder?

Pressure bleeding combined with pumping the pedal in/out w/bleed screw cracked open has always worked for me.
No we didn't pre-bleed when the trans was off. I wasn't aware at the time. The person helping me used a method which had worked for him several times which effectively adds a second reservoir and a vacuum method. From what I understood, adding the second reservoir would account for air between the slave and the bleeder valve.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:47 AM   #9
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If the slave wasn't empty or isn't new you my be okay, but otherwise, the path between the two openings for sucking or blowing fluid during a bleed procedure doesn't include the slave cylinder.

Back in the day Nick T. explained it to me like a capital letter 'T'. The potential points for adding fluid and releasing fluid during bleeding are at the left and right sides of the top of the 'T', the slave cylinder is at the bottom, so the fluid just goes through from left/right and doesn't necessarily flow through or release air in the slave or in the line to it. It likely doesn't matter if you suck or blow or add a reservoir to reverse the flow right/left.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:32 PM   #10
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Do these cars have a service opening like 9000's did? Maybe I can access the slave from said service opening and carefully pump the slave with a screw driver to bleed air out from the slave that way...
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForSwede View Post
Do these cars have a service opening like 9000's did? Maybe I can access the slave from said service opening and carefully pump the slave with a screw driver to bleed air out from the slave that way...
Yes, that's how I did mine 2 weeks ago.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:19 AM   #12
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Moreboost had the same issue. Might want to PM and see if and how he solved it.
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:10 AM   #13
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Thanks I'll reach out to him.
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