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Old 02-15-2010, 12:00 PM   #21
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You Guys All know that 88 turbos should have TWO fuel pumps right?

And the Control ground From the LH brain to the Fuel pump relay likes to Disappear when the LH brain starts to fail. This can be bypassed with a Jumper from the Main relay to the Fuel relay if the LH brain has failed in this way.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:03 PM   #22
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^ yes, a pre pump and a main pump...
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:30 AM   #23
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I read that the radiator was replaced but am not certain if that included the thermostatic switch that connects the fan to the relay. Just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Testing or replacing the switch would help you move forward but may not rule out a flaky relay. The switch on mine was shot at 40,000 miles.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:54 AM   #24
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^ Good good... It's a very good habit to have no matter what car you are driving. Hopefully the relay is the culprit so it's an easy fix.
Attacking the fuel issue later today. Thanks for your input Zach. Will definitely update on that cause, and the other when I figure it out. (It's a bit of a pet peeve when I do searches on here or SC, and someone posts a question, people offer advice/solutions, and the OP never provides a wrap up on causes/fixes for the original issues.)

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I think it was more of a lucky guess on my part haha, what is the latest on your plans to fix her?
I have someone coming over this afternoon with a pump and relay, so we'll figure it out one way or another.

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You Guys All know that 88 turbos should have TWO fuel pumps right?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey's Autohaus View Post
And the Control ground From the LH brain to the Fuel pump relay likes to Disappear when the LH brain starts to fail. This can be bypassed with a Jumper from the Main relay to the Fuel relay if the LH brain has failed in this way.
Interesting.... hopefully that's not necessary.

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I read that the radiator was replaced but am not certain if that included the thermostatic switch that connects the fan to the relay. Just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Testing or replacing the switch would help you move forward but may not rule out a flaky relay. The switch on mine was shot at 40,000 miles.
Thanks, will look into that if the replacing the fan relay doesn't work.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:25 PM   #25
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Ok, well please let me know how it turns out!
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Old 02-16-2010, 06:32 PM   #26
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All done. Like I said...

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Diagnosis: Fuel pump.


Ok, now I can actually start/drive the car to get it warm enough to see wtf is going on with the cooling (fan relay) issue. I have one on order from eEuro. They wanted $39 -- dealer wanted $114.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:40 PM   #27
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All done. Like I said...





Ok, now I can actually start/drive the car to get it warm enough to see wtf is going on with the cooling (fan relay) issue. I have one on order from eEuro. They wanted $39 -- dealer wanted $114.
Yay! Now, if all the interuptions are over, we can detail her haha.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:42 PM   #28
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Good deal! Again, keep us posted.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:37 PM   #29
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Yay! Now, if all the interuptions are over, we can detail her haha.
Looking forward to it. I have a few pads for the PC, but if there's something specific I should pick up, let me know.
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:45 PM   #30
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Looking forward to it. I have a few pads for the PC, but if there's something specific I should pick up, let me know.
Don't worry about it, try out some of the stuff I have and then make a decision on what you like or want to buy. Just bring the buffer!
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:16 AM   #31
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:40 PM   #32
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Replaced the cooling fan time delay relay today (that sucker was old -- date printed on it was from '86). While it was quite cool here, the temp gauge still crept up to about 60% during normal city driving. Likely would've been higher on a warm day. Thinking the culprit lies in this suggestion below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tardis24 View Post
I read that the radiator was replaced but am not certain if that included the thermostatic switch that connects the fan to the relay. Just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Testing or replacing the switch would help you move forward but may not rule out a flaky relay. The switch on mine was shot at 40,000 miles.
From thesaabsite.com:

Quote:
NOTE: Thermo fan Switch failures can generally be identified by noting that the electric cooling fans are coming on late. The needle on the temperature gauge will be at approximately 3/4 toward the red. This is an indication that the resistance in the thermo switch is excessive. Part number 8547572/75/82/88/92 can be interchanged with your original switch with no problems (in most cases the OES switch was 89 Degree). The cooler switch 8547572/82 is recommended in warmer climates. Going to the 75 Degree switch in very hot climates will cause the fan to come on more often which will also keep the engine running cooler but it will also cause the fans to run much longer after cutting off the car.
I will test it tomorrow. Haynes says bridge with a screwdriver while the car running hot-ish, and see if the fan comes on, yes?

Also, if this switch does need replacing, is it necessary to drain all the coolant?
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:13 PM   #33
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I will test it tomorrow. Haynes says bridge with a screwdriver while the car running hot-ish, and see if the fan comes on, yes?
Thought about this and I am not sure this tells you a whole lot, unless there was certainty of what the gauge represented. You have observed that the fan can run when hot. If it didn't run at all unless the switch was bypassed, it would certainly point to the switch.

Otherwise it only suggests that the relay is "on" and your fan wiring is connected.

I only mention this because I have heard various accounts of what is considered normal. Slightly below 1/2 appears to be 'normal' for me, but I also have seen 60% in the city before the fan goes on.

I believe the more accurate test is to boil the switch and measure the temp when the switch closes. Then you check whether it meets the specs on the switch.

Hopefully there are other thoughts on this.


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Also, if this switch does need replacing, is it necessary to drain all the coolant?
Doubt it.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:43 PM   #34
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Well I haven't gotten around to testing it because it's been running at normal temp. Car seems to be running fine since doing the fuel pump.

But.

On a short drive this morning, every time into the boost it would sputter and stumble terribly and basically lose all ability to go over 45mph uphill. No smoke out the tailpipe that I can see. My uneducated opinion is that the turbo is fine because I can still get it to boost normally, albeit intermittently.

The car no longer does the usual popping on overrun, which says to me today's issue is in the exhaust. I've thought the cat was clogging for a while now, because I barely passed smog last Oct, and it recently smelled of sulfur for a day.

When I got home just now I covered the tailpipe with my hand and a section of newspaper, and discovered an exhaust leak in front of the muffler. It appears cracked along the seam in the metal, and there is a lot of black matter (soot...?) on the same side of the muffler as the crack in the pipe. (Haha, crack in the pipe.)

So, would a badly clogged muffler cause major stumbling, loss of power, quieter exhaust, and severely reduced boosting? Makes sense to me...

If there was smoke, I'd be more inclined to presume the turbo was gone, but it was just rebuilt in 07.
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:07 PM   #35
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It could most definately cause the symptoms you are describing. Since there is less exhaust flow past a clogged cat, it will be quieter and basically is causing extreme back pressure. This increased backpressure could cause some side effects like high egt and just a general lack of flow.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:56 AM   #36
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So, would a badly clogged muffler cause major stumbling, loss of power, quieter exhaust, and severely reduced boosting? Makes sense to me...

If there was smoke, I'd be more inclined to presume the turbo was gone, but it was just rebuilt in 07.
Intercooler hose wasn't seated properly. Case closed, runs like a champ.
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