New To SAAB, Help Needed! - The Saab Link Forums

Go Back   The Saab Link Forums > Saab Classic 900 Forum '78-'93 > Car Problems? Classic 900 Only

Car Problems? Classic 900 Only If you're experiencing problems with your Classic 900, post your question in here.

SaabLink.net is the premier Saab Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-09-2007, 10:36 PM   #1
SAABeginner
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1
New To SAAB, Help Needed!

This is a story in progress:

I just got my first SAAB, its a 1990 900 turbo. Im a big Volvo guy so this was next on my list...

Anyway, the car has been sitting for some time, 3 years but after some TLC she was running great. For the past 4 days all has been good. Then today the CEL came on and some smoke started to come out of the tail pipe. The smoke was the smell of rich running burnt fuel.

She was still running good and strong tho, but just a short time ago when i was pulling out of the gas station she cut out. It made as sound as if some kind of light switch went off and the motor just died.

She started right back up but began to stall out and starve for fuel between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Running real ruff and crappy. Bucking and stalling. I can hardly drive the car at all now, it wont get over 3000 RPM with out stalling.

If i disconnect the battery for a bit, "old Volvo trick" she seems to run great for a few then the CEL comes on and it goes back to running like hell.

Then, Replaced all the vacuum hoses i could find, new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Reset the timing, only 50% better.

It still craps out around 3000 RPMs, but one strange thing, now i can rev it all the way out in park or neutral.

I tested things out with the O2 sensor unplugged, same issues.

I also just got more gas and put techron in it, same issues as well.

And then, Well, now i have nothing. i cant keep the car running for more than 25 seconds. It does not want to start and once it does, it runs fine for about 25 seconds.

The only thing i did right before this was inspect the computer on the drivers side front fender. I did not un plug it, i just upend the top to look inside.

This is crappy.
mars700 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-10-2007, 04:16 AM   #2
Moderator
Elder
 
Tweek's Turbos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 10,303
Send a message via AIM to Tweek's Turbos
I know next to nothing about these cars, but here is a buick trick. Get the car started and with a wrench, try tapping on the Mass Air Flow sensor. Give it some sturdy whacks. See if the car's idle changes or anything else noticeable happens.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delorean
- pretend you are watering delicate plants...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAABseanSCANIA
can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
Tweek's Turbos is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-10-2007, 05:52 AM   #3
TSLMember
 
ViggenJohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Albany, IN
Posts: 43
Did you get the code on the CEL? That would be a good starting point prior to clearing out same.
ViggenJohn is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-10-2007, 11:26 AM   #4
Live, eat, and sleep by TSL
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,703
when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

which plugs did you use? i hope they were NGK BCP7ES or BCP6ES. the not running over 3k rpm sounds like a problem i had when trying to use some Bosch platinum plugs. NGK are the only plugs that seem to work in the c900. oh, do not use the 'R' style... for example, BCPR7ES - these are resistor plugs for cars with DI. what did you gap the plugs to? did you test the coil when you swapped the plugs, rotor, cap, etc? check the resistance across the '+' and '-" terminals and again across the "-" and center

the problem you are having with keeping the car running does sound to me like an AMM problem. try unplugging the AMM and see if it runs any better. pull it out of the car and clean it out real well with intake cleaner, carefully inspect it to be sure the wire is not broken. then again, it may be broken and still look ok.

pull off all intake piping and carefully inspect all rubber grommets. you may have burst one (i've burst the same one twice - attached to the stock IC outlet).

i highly recommend purchasing the Bentley Publishers repair manual. it is the only one made for the c900 that is worth anything. they cover all diagnostics, torque specs, removal and installation, basically everything you need and a bit more. they use pics you can see too!

Welcome to TSL!
xassh is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-12-2007, 02:53 AM   #5
Elder
 
oliversexpedition's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dulles, VA
Posts: 2,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by mars700 View Post
This is a story in progress:

I just got my first SAAB, its a 1990 900 turbo. Im a big Volvo guy so this was next on my list...

Anyway, the car has been sitting for some time, 3 years but after some TLC she was running great. For the past 4 days all has been good. Then today the CEL came on and some smoke started to come out of the tail pipe. The smoke was the smell of rich running burnt fuel.

She was still running good and strong tho, but just a short time ago when i was pulling out of the gas station she cut out. It made as sound as if some kind of light switch went off and the motor just died.

She started right back up but began to stall out and starve for fuel between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Running real ruff and crappy. Bucking and stalling. I can hardly drive the car at all now, it wont get over 3000 RPM with out stalling.

If i disconnect the battery for a bit, "old Volvo trick" she seems to run great for a few then the CEL comes on and it goes back to running like hell.

Then, Replaced all the vacuum hoses i could find, new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Reset the timing, only 50% better.

It still craps out around 3000 RPMs, but one strange thing, now i can rev it all the way out in park or neutral.

I tested things out with the O2 sensor unplugged, same issues.

I also just got more gas and put techron in it, same issues as well.

And then, Well, now i have nothing. i cant keep the car running for more than 25 seconds. It does not want to start and once it does, it runs fine for about 25 seconds.

The only thing i did right before this was inspect the computer on the drivers side front fender. I did not un plug it, i just upend the top to look inside.

This is crappy.
I would check a few things, Intercooler connections, vaccuam/AMM, and then fuel delivery.

I woudl check the intercooler connections, off a boot gets lose or blown off, you might see the stalling, etc. Did you replace the vaccum line that goes into the cabin and supports the sotck boost gauge, its hard to replace, but can go bad. You also mentioned that you looked at the computer/APC box in the front fender, did yuo reseat it? There are also vaccum lines that goto the cruise controler right nearby.

The AMM or Air Mass Meter is the first electrical device on the air filter round with a square top. Gently discounnted it, look inside and see if there is a fine filiment, similar to a lightbulb filiment , see if its intact. Search this forum, there also is a ohm rating,reading.

The other is to check the fuel delivery system, the problem with a car that has sat for three years is that all sorts of fuel related problems could occur. Someone mentioned fuel filter, which is a good recommendtion. The other question is what type of fuel delivey car you getting? There are hard and eay ways to check fule poressue, from checking with a fuel pressue gauge to seeing if it flows into a bottle(possible fuel pump).

How about the fuel pressure regular (FPR) which is on top of the fuel rail? Once the fuel filter is checked/replaced, your getting full pressure, is there some junk, rust dirt, etc in the injectors or bad injectors?

Some ideas, also worth investing an a Benleys or other manual, there are many toublshooting tips that might help.

If your a Volvo guy, there are some interchangable parts, etc from the 240 class.

Hope this helps,

--Oliversexpedition
__________________
99 9-5 Wagon
01 9-5 Sedan
99 9-5 Wagon parting out
94 C900 Vert - Sold
94 325i Vert
oliversexpedition is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-12-2007, 11:54 AM   #6
Live, eat, and sleep by TSL
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,703
i do not believe that the AMM on a '90 is adjustable, the ohm readings won't do you any good.
xassh is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-12-2007, 01:12 PM   #7
Deez Nutz
Site ModeratorElder
 
Palmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cheese Country
Posts: 15,679
Send a message via AIM to Palmer
Well, it will tell you if it's shot or not.

This sounds like a fuel thing to me. If it sat for that long, I would bet some sludge and junk clogged the fuel filter. I would try swapping that out and see if it's clogged.

It's above the rear axle on the passenger side. You will need a 17mm wrench and a 21mm wrenck plus a torx wrench that I *think* is a t30.

Even if it's not, a new fuel filter is a good thing too...


If that's not it, there is a screen around the FP, that can get gunked up too.
__________________
S55/LC100/KL
Palmer is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-12-2007, 08:56 PM   #8
Elder
 
JLausch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 2,124
Send a message via AIM to JLausch
I second the fuel filter theory. My SPG ('90) was doing a similar dance after a batch of dirty fuel got in it although not quite as severe as yours, it never shut off. Changed the fuel filter and it ran good as new. Also have the code pulled and see what you get.
__________________
'03 9-5 Aero wagon
'91 9000t (sold)
'90 SPG (sold)
'01 Viggen (sold)
JLausch is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-12-2007, 09:32 PM   #9
User
Elder
 
zingZACH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Durham, NH
Posts: 9,193
Send a message via AIM to zingZACH
Sounds like sneaky vacuum leaks or possibly fuel issues... and c900's are really dumb when it comes to CEL's..... they usually only come on for stupid things like if the car starts to stumble or vacuum leaks...

Also, check your intercooler piping, make sure the rubber on the couplers is in tact and have no cracks in them, and make sure they are on the turbo, ic, and throttle body nice and tight. This will certainly cause issues if there is something wrong here.

Also, since it's a 90 (which is LH 2.4), it is really picky when it comes to vacuum leaks. I would check EVERY possible vacuum line, especially the ones on the inner fender (drivers side) under the APC box that go to the charcoal canister. I have had shitty running c900's, and all of them had cracked vac lines to the charcoal cansiter. The little elbow on it is usually the culprit. Check it out, it's worth a shot.

Keep in mind, c900's have A LOT of vacuum lines.... more than most cars. And a couple are kind of tucked away and hidden. Dry rotted vac lines is very common in these cars. And this will definately make your car run like ass lol.

And look at the hoses that go to the AIC valve... I have had those go on my before.

Be sure to remove some of these hoses and really inspect them closely, the clamps holding some of these hoses can slice them and hide the hole in them unless you take the clamps off. I had my SPG towed because of the AIC valve hose getting sliced by the clamp, and I was hunting for the problem everywhere. Car would start up and die as soon as I hit the gas and it would barely run. I finally looked at those hoses last and didnt see anything, decided to take the clamps off and it was gashed under the clamp. Swapped the hose, problem fixed


If it's getting spark, it has to be fuel.... so check some of these.

*Check and Recheck vaccum lines.
*Check IC Pipes and Rubber couplers / boots
*Check AIC Valve and especially the AIC hoses!!! Thoroughly check them
*Replace the fuel filter
*Make sure the fuel pump is working correctly.
*Check the fuel injectors, make sure they are not all gummed up.
*Swap FPR (fuel pressure regulator)
*Check AMM

I would start there.... if it wasnt starting at all I would say check your ignition amplifier on the drivers side inner fender.
__________________
1999 9-3 Viggen - T7 Suite Stage 3
1988 900 Springtime in Sweden


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by zingZACH; 08-12-2007 at 09:41 PM.
zingZACH is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-16-2007, 02:29 PM   #10
Live, eat, and sleep by TSL
 
c900's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tronno, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,021
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweek's Turbos View Post
I know next to nothing about these cars, but here is a buick trick. Get the car started and with a wrench, try tapping on the Mass Air Flow sensor. Give it some sturdy whacks. See if the car's idle changes or anything else noticeable happens.
Might be a better idea to not whack the AMM first-off, but check it's electrical connections and anything else nearby, since the platinium wire in the AMM's is tought but not super-tough.

Craig.
__________________
Craig Dewick - Tronno, NSW, .au -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
c900 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 04:15 AM   #11
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
Okay similar problems here.
In neutral, I can bounce the tach off the rev limiter all day long.
In gear, when I bought the car, I could only see redline, if I accelerated gradually enough to keep the boost gage at 1/3 or less, if I opened it up, at 50% of the boost gage, the car would flat fall on its arse, and actually lose rpm if you held it WOT.

Rerouted some vacuum lines (only have HAnes at this point, the Bentley is next on my list, LOVE!! a Bentley manual)Guessing, at what looked right, coupled with seat of the pants driving feel, and now I can boost to 2/3 ish of the boost gage, falling on its arse has resided to a flat spot, I back out of the throttle, and then reapply, and it seems to move past it.

Actually have performe dthe boost check chronicled in the Hanes, only difference being I used the dash gauge, as opposed to a more accurate satellite pressure gauge to check boost, cared less at this point about what my actual boost level is down to the pound inch, and more just seeing/feeling it work, I accelerate in 3rd from 1500 rpm, foot "right down to the floor", and then I break at 3,00, and throttle at the saem time to build the boost.. I kill the car every itme, can't get it to boost... almost like the braking system is causing a vacuum leak, that causes me to lose idle initially when I apply them ( see "let off the throttle slowing down" paragraph below), and cause me to lose boost pressure.

I have changed fuel filter, plugs, BOSCH "SuperPlus" 7927, then in fine print FR 8 DC +.... and ahh hemm, installed a high flow cat. the above improvement came from doing all of the above, and fuel filter is a 17 and a 19 BTW...

Also, when the car is cold, it flutters at idle, 400 rpm, then spikes up to 1200, then back to 400, then back to 1200.....

Secondary idle issue, is it is reluctant to start the idling process, runs for a brief second then dies.. kinda have to feather fawk the throttle to get her to idle.

Third idle issue, is she is a bitch to start, if right after you kill, not so much, but if it sits for a spell, Damn!!!!!!

Almost like the pick-up/transfer pump isn't working, but I can't seem to find where it has one....

ANd when you let off the throttle, slowing down, downshifting, etc., it drops... 100 rpm or so, bottom of tach, and then picks back up and idles.

Emptied a can of starting fluid (never can remember if its starting fluid or carb cleaner you use to check for vacuum leaks) and found nothing, if carb cleaner, that explains why. Also didn't check the charcoal canister hoses.

Its a little aggravating, from a pride element, my girl's 2-02 Corolla, pusser edition, will run circles around this flaming thing, and (well, head to head anyway) it doesn't always catch when it does that dip thing, so restarting constantly isn't fun.

Last edited by BlackDog; 06-11-2008 at 04:21 AM.
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 04:56 AM   #12
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
here are some pics to illustrate, in the first pic, the PCV (?) was open, (when I acquired the car) and the larger hose had a bolt in it, the second hose, (the smaller one) was capped, and the PCV was open at the little nipple as well, and the hose that was capped,(the smaller one) is now going to the funky little box you will see in the third pic.







This last pic, is a repeat of number 2, with another potential problem area highlighted, that little guy clicks, loudly, and often, what does it do (boost something or other I think) and when should I hear it work?

BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 05:05 AM   #13
c900 Grognard
Elder
 
Jack Straw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 3,713
Ditch the Bosch plugs, and get NGK BCP7ES plugs, it can really make a huge difference.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IronJoe
Korean wheels, man. Like catnip for the ladies.
Jack Straw is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 05:10 AM   #14
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
as opposed to these?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...x.asp?mode=nml
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 05:21 AM   #15
c900 Grognard
Elder
 
Jack Straw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 3,713
The ones I mentioned are the ones your car came with, and was designed to run on. The iridium will work, but are more expensive, and can't have any serious performance improvement. The ES plugs don't foul very easily, and will perform nicely. You can also use BCP7EV plugs, they actually last longer, but are more prone to fouling. The ES plugs are less than $10 for a set. Gap to .024"
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IronJoe
Korean wheels, man. Like catnip for the ladies.
Jack Straw is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 05:25 AM   #16
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
Cool, that is what were in it, although they appear to have been gapped, at ohhhhh, I don't know, .80...!

I can fit a quarter in the gap.

I have really enjoyed the NGK V-power in my Toyota's, $2 a piece, give or take, and I "felt" a difference. Whetehr it was just becuase they needed replaed, or if it was because the V-Powers magically unleashed extra squirrels.. couldn't tell ya.
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 05:31 AM   #17
c900 Grognard
Elder
 
Jack Straw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 3,713
Yeah, .080 is a little much
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IronJoe
Korean wheels, man. Like catnip for the ladies.
Jack Straw is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 02:31 PM   #18
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
So, I fitted the NGK BCP 7's in G-power trim, and stil have major flat spot if I give it full throttle... mid throttle, it can get really exciting now.. moved the wastegate actuator rod in a bit... almost see red line on the boost gauge now. I think the little solenoid mounted on the firewall has seen better days, unplugging it slows the car down, but even plugged in, I still feel "off"

However, even "off" it is way snappier than my 244 GLT , intercooled was!
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2008, 02:54 PM   #19
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
the original NGK's were gapped at .055- .060.... explains why it wouldn't run on the way home.
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2008, 11:05 PM   #20
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 140
SO my driveability problems are a little here, and a little there (chicky something or others thread)

Here we go with an update, and a hair tearing out.

I have put 1,000 miles on this car in a week. Rebuilt the slave, new fuel filter, and plugs twice, first Bosch copper plus... Grrrh!, second NGK G-Power, in the BCP7 trim y'all recommended.
Oh, and I timed it thurs evening as close as I figured I was gonna get to the right number, as A: I didn't reinstall the plastic cover (should have replaced the throw out bearing when I was in there, and will in the next day or two.. so I left it off, as I wasn't sure my reseal was going to hold, and I wanted to see everything going on)....(that and the mnarks are rusty.. found 0 found 5 below TDC.. guessed at 18 below, and I think I am damn close!)

All is fine, Friday Morning, car is in rare form, in fact I flat plow past a motorcycle patrolman at 15 over (80 in a 65)(he looked at me like WTF are you thinking?, and I looked at him, like Okay, I am slowing down, but why aren't you after me already?) getting on the Freeway, car has never accelerated like it did that day. Still a flat spot, sorta, but DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am starting to get why this car is/was so popular... I have also, in addition to the above maintenance, adjusted the waste gate rod in a turn or three...... not a huge difference in the drive ability prior to Friday.. but a little.

My Solenoid of clickage... clicks like 400 rpm.. too fast to count anyway, with ign in start mode.. BTW, car runs fabulous.. gas mileage goes to hell ( ) and I am happy. Get a call from Domino's, so I go into work, Day job is in the Crapper, and Friday wasn't looking like a good day to revive it, so rocking the pie I come...

Literally park the car, and change and go back to the car, swapped one pair of shorts and t-shirt, for anoter pair of shorts and a polo.. 5 minutes? I petted the Dogs as well... No CLutch! WTF? I had noticed the car making puddles earlier, and started watching my reservoir, the puddles seemed to be more oily than H2o... but no apparent leakage from master reservoir.. the PS system is a known leaker.. but I am skeptical, as these are large puddles.

Anywho, no loss of clutch, no loss of fluid, until Fri. AM.So, I pump, and open pet cock (dogs weiner? sorry bad joke), and so on, seem to be getting pressure release, but peddle not gaining pressure, call in, and tear out the intercooler piping... so as to see what is going on. Wipe clean the Bell housing hollow (the aluminum part under the assembly that you see when the cover is gone) and run back in to pump and see if I get leakage...

Oh, this is where I mention that the whole time I almost gave the car the name puddles, the signs of leakage in the engine bay led me to believe they were clutch slave realted, hoses and lines near the raditor were progressively cummier, etc. etc. etc.

Jump back in car, and pump.. clutch immediately starts to come up, so I cuss at my self for stripping everything, cause now even longer before I get to work...Bleed off clutch, to better than it was before.. pump, install rod to keep pedal extended, run to front drain, retihten, repeat...

Find air leaks in intercooler piping, cracked boot, loose boot etc...snug up beter than before, call boss and head to work.. have to force my self to drive car less spiritedly than before leaving the subdivision, as Feck Oh Dear this Mother Fecker has come to LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Happy.


Open up to 1/3 throttle after I get out of the subdivision...deserted road, late to work, all the justification needed right? Plus 1/3 throttle is a far cry from re-enacting "The fast and The Furios: Tokyo Drift" Hear an audible "pop" and I lose my Turbo for the rest of the day.

Figure, wastegate actuator rod, vacuum hose, intercoler piping, something simple...
Drive at Domino's for 2 hours, during this time, I lose nad regain my clutch 3-6 times per delivery ( I am averaging 5 miles round trip).. If I hold in gear til say 3,000 rpm, and then let decelerate in gear, no clutch, if I pull to 3,000 + in each gear shifting up up up.. plenty of clutch..

Thinking Vacuum related.. the clutch fluid feeds off the brake reservoir, which has a vacuum booster, and I have lost my turbo (gauge sees zero point, thats it) chalk it up to that. Go to jail Friday after noon (got hte ticket ion January... 2 days, well 90 days, 88 suspended no ins. ticket, ins. had lapsed by 3 days... Idaho apparently is harsh, [well that Judge anyway]!!!!!!!!!! had no idea I was going to jail, figured 5 days trash pickup.. but I digress), so whilst on my state holiday I dissected this a thousand times in my head, and came up with nothing.

Went and looked at every vacuum hose, fitting,intercooler line, waste gate rod etc. right now, and all is well. turned the key but no start, and the damn solenoid for the turbo is clacking like maybe 3-4oo rpm, and LOUD!!!!!!!!!!, no clutch in the garage right now.. but I think it was starting to build pressure as I was pumping on it.

thoughts? My friend suggested that the clutch master was tired and now that I have rebuilt the slave.. I am creating pressures it (the master) can't handle, so its flaking out...

I have no idea. Especially when you throw in the audible "pop" and the loss of the Turbo... Confused all to hell.

Last edited by BlackDog; 06-15-2008 at 11:24 PM.
BlackDog is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Saab Link Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Vehicle Info.
Enter your vehicle information (year, model, mods)
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
All content is copyright The Saab Link and it's original authors.


 

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.