9-5 2.3T fault codes po134 and po327 - The Saab Link Forums

Go Back   The Saab Link Forums > Saab 9-5 '98-'09 Forum > Car Problems? 9-5 Only

Car Problems? 9-5 Only If you're experiencing problems with your 9-5, post your question in here. CEL Code or GTFO!

SaabLink.net is the premier Saab Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-16-2014, 12:55 PM   #1
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
9-5 2.3T fault codes po134 and po327

Having some issues with my 9-5. So my car needed the PCV update kit which I finally installed. It had the engine light one but I had the pipe off the valve cover disconnected until I installed the #6 update kit. I cleared codes after I test drove the car. A day later the check engine ligth came back. I got these 2 codes. po 134 and 327. So the 327 is a knock sensor code. The DIC is fairly new, been in the car like 6 or 8 months. The car idles too slow/rough and threatens to stall once the engine is warm. I am wondering if the knock code was due to this condition. Code 134 is O2 sensor code for bank 1 sensor 1. As it is a 4 cyl, it only has 1 bank right? So what is sensor 1? Before or after the cat?
I do have 1 vacuum leak that I will be fixing right away, the fitting on top of the intake for the brake booster. Got the fitting in the mail a couple days ago, so that will eliminate that problem. I will replace the 02 (bank 1 sensor 1) soon as I know where it is?
I may need to find the harness connection as I read its an issue sometimes. Anyone ever done this before and know where to locate the plug in question?
Thank you!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-17-2014, 10:50 AM   #2
Elder
 
DrewP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,021
O2 sensor #1 is before the cat, right at the top of the downpipe, but the vacuum leak may be causing it. Fix that first and clear the codes.

The connector for the O2 sensors and the crank position sensor are on the right side of the intake manifold, there are 3 color coded 4-pin connectors. O2 #1 is the black one.

For the P0327 make sure you have the correct NGK resistor spark plugs in and that they are gapped right. Check for corrosion or green oxidation in the connector going into the DI cassette.
__________________
(Former) Saab Tech / Competition Prep

Quote:
You still don't understand. This is like trying to explain calculus to a clam.
DrewP is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2014, 02:19 AM   #3
Elder
 
jssaab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,929
If you have a crappy chinese DI it coudl be failing already many do afte 6 months
jssaab is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-18-2014, 10:05 AM   #4
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Thanks guys I will get my vac leak fixed first and then clear codes. I did make sure to put the NGK's in it when I changed them out last summer, and I did gap them to spec. The DIC is a cheapo though. I will pull it and be sure everything is clean and see if things are good there. I think the car has only like a few thousand miles since the DIC was changed as it doesn't go too far usually but doesn't mean it isn't giving up already. I think I have a 1 yr warranty on it, maybe I will get to use it?! I will update when I get some of this stuff done, cold here! Suppose to warm up the next couple days!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2014, 06:59 AM   #5
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
OK so I replaced the 02 sensor, and put the original DIC back on. Car still idles rough when its warmed up. It hasn't been driven much since I did the repairs. I took it to work last night, 18 mile 1 way. On the way to work, car ran good. Seems like the turbo doesn't always spool up right but gave me no issues. On the way home car wasn't running well at all until the engine warmed up all the way, was bucking and surging, with lower power than usual. And the boost just wouldn't come up very well. After it was fully warmed up it seemed to run normal, and shortly after that, maybe 12-13 miles into the ride home the engine light came back on. I will be checking that shortly to see what came back on.
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2014, 06:52 AM   #6
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I took a look at the car yesterday before work. I now have code p1110. I think I had this code before in the past, the vac line kept falling off the valve on the firewall. I had fixed that when I replaced the O2 sensor. So now it is still connected. So far the O2 sensor and knock sensor codes are staying away. Hoping I fixed those. SO now it looks like I need to check the Bypass Valve on the turbo pipe from what I read. Would make sense if that is failed, the turbo does funny stuff sometimes, won't boost right sometimes, as if the bypass gets stuck open maybe??
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2014, 01:26 PM   #7
Elder
 
DrewP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,021
The diaphragm in the bypass valve tears and they create a vacuum leak.

Put a piece of vacuum line on the nipple on the valve and suck on it, it should hold pressure. If you can suck air thru the vacuum hose the valve is bad.
__________________
(Former) Saab Tech / Competition Prep

Quote:
You still don't understand. This is like trying to explain calculus to a clam.
DrewP is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2014, 09:19 PM   #8
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I read that on a forum somewhere else too, I will give it a shot. I suspect it is leaking. If it leaks, do you think it will hurt anything if I plug off the vac hose until I can get another valve?
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2014, 10:27 AM   #9
SAABeginner
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Consider the fallowing: U were driving with the PCV, disconnected ( all that time, yr ECM; had to B readjusting, to compensate the rest of yr engine to function with out it, now that U install the PCV, it will have to readjust it self, back to normal , even when U clear the code). & yes the PCV, will make the idle speed drop, & make the car run rough, & when that happen the ECM, will signal for more fuel & or air, & generally the 02 sensor get mix signal, & trigger the code, yr 02 sensor is probably giving a false signal. Remember next time ( clear the code(s), before going for a test drive
lito is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2014, 07:31 AM   #10
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I have cleared the codes after every time I have fixed anything on the engine. I had codes for )S sensor before, but I thought the pcv could have been part of that. After doing the pvc kit I cleared codes. Came back on with 02 and knock sensor. Replaced 02 sensor, cleared again, about 20 miles later light again. Swapped DIC, cleared codes, 20 or so miles later, light is on, BCV looks to be bad. I need to get that fixed and I think I may have the problems fixed that cause the light to come on. Still it runs rough at idle. It is like the idle is too low but it is running 8-900 RPM in gear stopped. Idle seems like a good speed, just not running right. I was thinking of pulling the throttle body off and give it s good cleaning and check it over for anything that could leak air and see if that helps. It has 230,000 miles so things could be worn for sure.
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2014, 09:55 AM   #11
Elder
 
DrewP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,021
Automatic or manual? The brake booster and brake assist vacuum pump and their connections can cause vacuum leaks. Poke around and see if any of the little red plastic locking bushings are broken. You can also pull the brake booster line out of the top of the intake manifold and plug it to see if the idle smooths out. Just don't let whatever you plug it with get sucked into the intake, or you're gonna have a bad time.
__________________
(Former) Saab Tech / Competition Prep

Quote:
You still don't understand. This is like trying to explain calculus to a clam.
DrewP is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2014, 08:29 PM   #12
SAABeginner
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Clean yr TB, (CRC cleaner) check the rubber hoses that going to it, Clean yr MAF, sensor with CRC, -, TB & MAF sensor isrelated to yr low idle speed.- luck up on this forum for the (J16) junction, -related , to the codes that R popping up ,
lito is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2014, 07:04 AM   #13
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Car is automatic, idles a bit odd in neutral or park but when it gear sitting still it vibrates the car pretty good, sometimes makes you think it will stall but it stays running.
I think I will remove the TB and clean it really good. The MAF is the unit in the air intake pipe right? I will also pull that and clean it. I think I have a can of the CRC electric cleaner and I will get some carb cleaner for the TB. The car had 230,000 miles on it, a cleaning can't hurt. I will also check for vac leaks again. I am pretty certain my BCV is bad. it may be costing me vacuum? I will look into that. I haven't had time to work on it this week but hopefully over the weekend I can get some of this done! Thanks for the help!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Saab Link Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Vehicle Info.
Enter your vehicle information (year, model, mods)
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
All content is copyright The Saab Link and it's original authors.


 

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.