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Old 01-26-2009, 12:56 PM   #1
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Oil light blinking

Oil pressure light comes on when car gets hot and workng on idle ,when rpm around 1000 , but when rpm 1000+ light comes off .
Motor working fine no noise of any kind , i drop oil pan about month ago and is very clean no signs of sludge.

PCV is 3 years old , i order a new one .I realy hope is not oil pump .
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:03 PM   #2
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Time to drop the oil pan and have a look.



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Old 01-26-2009, 01:18 PM   #3
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Not good ^^^ what he said....

Smae problem wiht mine it was bearings
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:24 PM   #4
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he said he dropped the pan about a month ago.....
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:26 PM   #5
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Hey as we all no anything can change in a month. Dropping the pan again will allow him to run a feeler gauge to check the bearings and make sure something didn't come apart on the pickup screen tube. If all that checks out and nothing is out of the ordinary on the feed side of the oil pump then its time to pull the crank pulley and inspect the oil pump and pump housing.



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Old 01-26-2009, 01:29 PM   #6
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i did drop oil pan about a month ago and it was clean
When motor cold no light, and it starts blinking when i stop on stop signs or traffic light
Maybe my rpms to low ? is around 900-950 on idle.

Can i drive it or is better not ?
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:33 PM   #7
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No its not because your RPMs are to low.

Don't drive the car. You need to find out if this is truly an oil pressure issue (for whatever reason) or if the sensor is bad and needs replacement.

Usually the sensor fails by never grounding out and you can notice this when you go to start that the oil light isn't coming on like it should.

I understand you dropped the pan a month ago but look at my prior post. Anything can happen and it doesn't have to be sludge..........it could be bearing related or it could be something isn't sitting right and causing a leak in the oil pump system.

Drop the pan, get it inspected again and check out the oil pressure sensor. A few hundred dollars in labor is cheaper then 2k at an indy shop for a motor replacement.



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Old 01-26-2009, 01:33 PM   #8
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From the time i drop oil pan i did maybe 1000 miles maybe less

I was workng on trany and turbo and car was standing on stands for about a week , affter i fix trany light start to comes on .
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:36 PM   #9
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also, if your oil level is *very* (think 2+ quarts) low, you'll occasionally lose enough oil pressure that the light comes on
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:36 PM   #10
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How can i check if oil pressure sensor is working or not ?
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:37 PM   #11
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The trans won't have anything to do with this.

Your not losing any oil are you? Don't rule out anything just because you have done something prior.

Example. I replaced the oil filter housing to replace a leaking oil feed line that had rounded off the banjo bolt and therefore stuck. Thankfully I didn't just drive off because an idiotic moment of forgetting anerobic sealant left me with a bigger oil leak (I started the car while on jack stands and inspected. A few momments of cursing for the stupidity of it and 10 minutes to pull it (oil filter housing off), clean it, and apply the sealant and install and it was good (after again starting it on jack stands to inspect).



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Old 01-26-2009, 01:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kad View Post
How can i check if oil pressure sensor is working or not ?
Remove it, create a tube with a M14x1.5 female fitting and install pressure sender in the fitting. Attach a hand pump (with a gauge) to the open end of the tube.

Ground the test tube. Hook a ground lead from a test light with a 12volt power source to the test light to the terminal on the oil pressure switch. At this point the test light should be glowing. Increase the pressure with the pump. The test light should go out as soon as you hit about 7 psi if I remember right. That will tell you if its working properly and that you do in fact have an issue invovling oil (be it pump, sump, or bearing related) and that you should drop the pan and begin inspecting again.



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Old 01-26-2009, 01:48 PM   #13
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Almost forgot , my vacuum pump is very noisy i did order part already , could it be because of a vacuum pump actualy turning hard ?

Im realy truly tired of fixing my freaking car )))

For the last month i replace - alternator,wather pump,power stering pump,trany,turbo seals first then turbo, rear crankshaft seal, drive chaft seals .
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:51 PM   #14
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Yeah that could be an issue. If I remember right that is turned via the exhaust cam shaft much like the old distributors. If that thing has been buggered and vibrating excessibly (beyond what is acceptable by design) while the shaft is rotating then that vibration would have been transmitted directly to the camshfaft and damage could have been done there that would be causing you oil issues.

This is only speculation though as I can't take a look at the car.



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Old 01-26-2009, 04:44 PM   #15
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Yeah that could be an issue. If I remember right that is turned via the exhaust cam shaft much like the old distributors. If that thing has been buggered and vibrating excessibly (beyond what is acceptable by design) while the shaft is rotating then that vibration would have been transmitted directly to the camshfaft and damage could have been done there that would be causing you oil issues.

This is only speculation though as I can't take a look at the car.

That was my though to, need to change it to actualy see if its realy the pump , and my pump make realy bad clicking noise , also when car is cold my brakes works realy bad so i think pump needs to go.

anybody else think that could be an isue ? Or its no way think?

Last edited by Kad; 01-26-2009 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:14 PM   #16
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change PCV and oil for mineral and problem solved ... anyway in the next month will try to pull engine out for upgrade and probably complete rebuild.
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