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Old 02-28-2007, 12:24 PM   #1
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95 Areo won't start

My 2000 95 Areo has a starting problem. Sometimes after car has been driven and parked I return to start the car and get no response from the ignition. The dash lights up and all the systems go through the systems check, but no ignition. My mechanic has checked it out and found nothing. Has anyone heard of this problem?
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:25 PM   #2
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how do you eventually get it started?
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:26 PM   #3
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crank sensor maybe

FYI its an AERO not a Areo
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:29 PM   #4
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It will start the next day.
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:30 PM   #5
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sorry bad spelling!!
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:45 PM   #6
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Yeah, IIRC poor hot starting is a symptom of bad crank position sensor. Fortunately that's a pretty cheap fix.
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Old 03-03-2007, 07:17 PM   #7
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You didnt say if it cranks or not. If the the engine cranks and doesnt start its possible its crank angle related. But if it doesnt crank its maybe the trans. range (selector) switch on the top of the auto.
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Old 03-03-2007, 07:48 PM   #8
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Maybe a fuel pump?
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Old 03-10-2007, 12:31 PM   #9
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Question I have the same issue - need help

I have a 2001 Saab 9-5 with the same issue. The car will occasionally not start. All of the electrical items come on and the check is ok. To date I have replaced the:

- battery
- starter
- twice module

I am at the end of my rope with this issue and the Saab staff is at a loss for the problem. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks.

(Note: I have owned 4 saabs over the years - I hope this is not my last)
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:53 PM   #10
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I hope i can help, basically the function to start the car is when you turn the key you are sending a signal to the TWICE (Theft Warning intergrated central electronics unit) to crank the eng. If the transponder in the key is accepted the TWICE will ground the starter relay. The relay then sends out a B+ signal to the starter solenoid (the little wire on the starter). To get from the relay to the starter and to allow cranking only in P or N it goes though the gear position switch on top of the auto. This unit is also called the nuetral/park switch, trans. range switch, selector switch depending on where you are in the world. This trans range switch can be seen on top of the auto where the selector cable goes to the selector lever and the lever shafts comes up though this trans. range switch and it has a electrical loom coming out of it. This loom then goes to a connector (IIRC a 12 pin connector) in front of the battery tray. There is two connectors there that look the same. One is dark grey and the other is black. I think it is the dark grey one. Any way the crank signal (B+)goes in one wire of the connector and through the switch. If it is in P or N the voltage is allowed out of the switch by means of contacts inside the switch and goes on to crank the car. It is quite easy to check as you just check at the connector for B+ in and for it coming out again. If it doesnt come out again you know it is the trans. range switch at fault. I did about 30 of these in the last year for not cranking on 95 and 93.Anyway all this was from memory so may not be exact. On Tuesday (Mon. is a public holiday down here in OZ) I will photo the connector etc. and read the wiring diagram and repost. Hope it helps
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:14 AM   #11
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Thanks so much. I really appreciate the insights.
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Old 03-13-2007, 02:14 AM   #12
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That was easy i just cut and pasted this from where i put it in another forum

Alright so at work today I got some pictures of the connector, which is just in front of the battery tray at the base of the battery.Now this is for 95 98-01, 02 onwards are different so are 98-03 93s. They are very similar and you smart cookies can prob. figure which wires to test if you are experiencing probs. There is a black 10 pin connector and a grey one. The one you want to test is the black one. in the picture you can see the two wires you need to test. They are the blue one and the white one on the rh part of the connector.The white wire (Pin 6) which is at the bottom of the picture is the one going to the trans. range switch, it should have 12v when cranking. The blue wire (Pin 10)which is at the top of the picture is the 12v that comes back out of the switch if it is in park or neutral when cranking. Usually to test these i just use an ordinary test light and probe the two wires on the Lh part of the connector. I use the lh part because the wires are fatter and easier to probe. The colours of the wires on the left hand side you need to test are the black one for power in and the white one for the power out. I hope you all follow. If you want practice why not go out and test it even now while its working. what i do is get someone (mate, mum, bro, wife, well trained dog etc) to turn the key into the crank position and hold it there (only hold it there if the car wont crank other wise you will burn your starter out) now with your test light first probe the black fat wire on the lh part of the connector, it should light up. If it lights up then probe the fat white wire coming back out of the switch. If this doesnt light the test lamp then the trans range switch is maggotted and a newie is needed. If it does light on the fat white wire but still doesnt crank maybe check power to the solenoid (10mm nut) while trying to crank. Now all the times i said lh its actually rh on the car as i took the pictures from the front of the car. Sorry to confuse even more. Anyway hope it all helps. Any concerns feel free to pm me etc, also excuse the aussie way of spelling shit aswell
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:41 AM   #13
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Thanks. I will be checking it out today.
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Old 04-03-2007, 12:28 PM   #14
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Just had the starter and the ignition switch replaced. Did not solve the problem. Will have the wire tested. Thank's mate (lastaero)
4xsaab did you check yours yet, if so what did you find ?
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