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Old 01-24-2019, 06:18 PM   #1
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Re: Oh No Help Please. 2003 9.5 Aero

I have a 2003 9.5 aero. It cranks but will not start. As a matter of fact it will not crank with the key we have to jumper the starter from the battery. It turns over with the key on but will not start. We changed the starter. we changed the CPS and we changed the Direct ignition cassette. . the fuel pump was changed 3 years ago and we hear it running when you turn the key. I parked the car 4 months ago after driving it and it never started again. So now we don't have a clue where to look for the problem. I also had the alarm system siren going off and we unplugged it and took the box out. Found the batteries were good but the capacitors were bad in it. Heard it is okay to leave it disconnected. Any help on the starting problem would be appreciated. Thank you. Kim
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:14 AM   #2
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Any messages on the display? Something like "key not accepted"
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:25 PM   #3
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If you take off the intake pipe at the throttle body and spray starter fluid in it while it's cranking what does it do?

I can't tell whether you're saying the key works or that it doesn't work.

Do the accessories turn on but it's like the switch is bad in the momentary-contact start position? If the car doesn't recognize that there's a key in and you're just jumping the starter solenoid of course it's not going to start.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:02 PM   #4
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we found the problem today. A broken positive cable. It had been cut and taped up with electrical tape by someone. We pulled the tape and found. corrosion on both ends that been spliced together . the wire was brittle. I ordered a new positive cable that runs from the battery down to the starter and alternator . should have it Monday and this should fix the problem of no start . we got nothing but dash and interior lights with the key on. It would not crank the car. It did nothing when you would turn the key. no power was getting though the bad connection. . The new cable will fix everything I hope. Thank you to whoever posted about checking for an electrical short.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:40 PM   #5
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well the positive cable was installed today and it did not fix the problem. When you turn the key the dash lights light up but when you turn it to start it just clicks in the battery area. Now we are back to square one. No crank at all. Can anyone think of anything else that could cause this? Thank you, Kim
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Old 01-29-2019, 10:10 AM   #6
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Clicking from the starter solenoid with no crank is often a weak / old / dying battery. Can you try hooking up jumper cables from another car (leave it idling for 5-10 mins to charge the battery in the Saab a little) and then try it? Do the dash lights dim when you turn the key to START and hold it?
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Old 01-29-2019, 11:38 AM   #7
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we have had the battery tested . It is good. It is not an old battery. So we ruled out the battery. The lights do not dim when you turn the key.
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:15 PM   #8
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when you spray starter fluid into the throttle body all it does is try to fire a couple of times.
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:17 PM   #9
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no messages on the supply other than "check okay"
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:18 PM   #10
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in the display the only code that reads is "check ok"
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:13 PM   #11
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Got bad news today. I sent it to an Indy shop and they found that the ECU was full of water. as well as dice twice under drivers seat was wet. They are searching for some new parts They said the car is really messed up from water damage and I have no idea how it got in. . If anyone knows where I can get these computer parts from Please let me know. it is a 2003 9.5 Aero. Only 100,000 miles on it. UGH.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:25 PM   #12
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Do you know for sure what the clicking is when you turn the key to crank? Is it the starter solenoid, a relay or some other component?

If it is the solenoid that is on the starter then the circuit from ignition switch is OK. Don't understand why you replaced the starter when you had no evidence it was defective - cranked engine fine when when you jumped battery to starter. Assuming new starter is not defective, only explanation is problem with B+ circuit from battery. Check new positive cable properly installed and then check that the ground cable doesn't have a similar problem and connections to battery and engine/chassis are good - tight, no corrosion.

If clicking not from starter solenoid, problem is in key switch circuit which was good when you jumped and could crank with the key. What is the alarm system you removed? If was original equipment or maybe even aftermarket I believe it would disable the starting circuit. Was it removed after you were able to get the car to crank with the key?

Once you can get the engine to crank, the no start issue can be addressed. First step check if any trouble codes stored.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:37 PM   #13
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Hadn't seen your last post when I submitted response. Can't believe enough water could get in to do damage described unless car was in a flood at some time. Unless Indy can obtain used parts, cost to replace them will be prohibitive. More than car worth, time to scrap car. Could try to make a claim with your insurance company under comprehensive coverage.
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:59 PM   #14
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I found a remanufactured ECU on Ebay for $136 It has been programmed for the immobilizer. Also found a twice for $150 Prices look good to me. I got the Car in 2007. Its a 2003. Got it from original owner. Paid $13,000 for it back then. Not planning on scrapping the car . This car has never been in a flood so I plan on fixing it. It doesn't sound cost prohibitive to me. We will see how it works out.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:14 AM   #15
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Yeah the ECU is very high, I wonder how water got in there, maybe condensation or something.

You can buy a used Twice Dice and ECU and have them married to the car. If you get the TWICE, make sure you get at least one key for it. ( and the VIN) I have a spare ECU that I think even has a stage II tune that will work with stock exhaust and IC. 50 bucks if you want, its in my trunk right now I see it everytime i open it
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:48 PM   #16
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I don't know how the ECU got wet, but the TWICE is in a bad place. I had an issue in my 9-5 where the AC drains got clogged. They normally drain from the center HVAC box (underneath the stereo area) under the driver and passenger footwell and out under the car. When they get clogged, water just backs up into the box. The next lowest point for it to drain is the vent outlet to the rear footwell. It will completely saturate the carpet back there and can get close to the TWICE. This happened to me in summer temperatures though after long drives with the AC on. Another thing to be suspicious of would be the drains for the sunroof being clogged.
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