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Old 01-04-2016, 06:15 PM   #41
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Picked up a valve spring compressor of the sort but it did not come with the adapter so I will fab something up. It was cheap so I don't expect it to be easy. I will let you know how this goes.
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:54 PM   #42
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Today I did a little more diagnosing with the head. I poured some gas on the valves and the gas went right though the intake valve chambers in cylinder 4. I'll be going to a machine shop tomorrow to see what the damage is going to be. I was originally going to do a shave but I think a seat may be in order. I'm not sure but I'll see what the guy says tomorrow. Wish me luck????
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:40 AM   #43
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did you pull the valves to see if they were bent?
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:32 AM   #44
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Today I did a little more diagnosing with the head. I poured some gas on the valves and the gas went right though the intake valve chambers in cylinder 4. I'll be going to a machine shop tomorrow to see what the damage is going to be. I was originally going to do a shave but I think a seat may be in order. I'm not sure but I'll see what the guy says tomorrow. Wish me luck????
I bet having a shop fix/replace/whatever the valve seats would be more expensive than just finding another head with valves already in it!

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did you pull the valves to see if they were bent?
Good point.
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 01-08-2016, 05:21 PM   #45
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the intake valves for #4 were pretty messed up. One of the exhaust valves were cupped and the other was not sealing all the way because of melted spark plug metal stuck on the valve. The guy at the shop didn't even let me get the head out of the trunk and he already knew what generation saab it was from and when I lifted it up to show him the problem, he already knew what caused it and he was nice enough to take the valves I was bringing to the garage to put in after he was done. Valves installed, resurface of the cylinder head and extraction of the exhaust manifold studs that broke, 240 bucks. The guy actually loves working with Saab engines or Saab anything. The last time I saw the guy I was bringing my flywheel to get resurfaced from my 9000 and he identified that quick as well. I think if you want to do saab machining of anything and you live in MA, go to this guy in Southborough J & M Machine Co. Good guy. Sorry fro the marketing. I will be putting the car back together tomorrow morning. Will let you know what happens.

PS. I know you've been dying for pictures but I find that too tedious and time consuming while doing work on a project but I do have some be patient.
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:18 PM   #46
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pictures of shiny head work are always nice. and that doesn't sound like a bad price for what you had done.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:26 PM   #47
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I agree. Decent price. Although, I would have had him do valve seals and guides while it was there. If it's apart and sitting at the machine shop, ya might as well. Glad to hear it's all re-fixed.
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:01 PM   #48
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Mike D and I have been using Nashua Engine Rebuilders for various machining needs.
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 01-14-2016, 05:09 PM   #49
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Going to do some work on the car tonight. Just enough to turn the crank by hand to make sure the timing marks are all set. It seems as though a lot of people have been running into the issue of getting the marks even when the already lined them up. I know the first time I did it last month, I ran into the same issue so I had to keep resetting it and turning the crank by hand to make sure the marks were all lined up and timing was dialed in. That was kind of a pain because the exhaust cam barely lines up with the mark on the bearing cap. Might try to tie string to the open ended wrench then loop the other end of it to the exhaust stud to make sure I don't have the issue again. Wish me luck.
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Old 01-15-2016, 03:31 PM   #50
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The issue is that the slack is taken up only on the back side of the block where the tensioner is located.

Make sure you get the correct number of links between the cam gears, and then rotate by hand. Depending where the slack is it'll either be right or off a tooth. Remove the spring from the tensioner, loosen the cam gears, and advance the chain one tooth on both gears, then try again--you'll be working against valve spring pressure, so keeping an open end wrench on the cam helps put it in the correct position to bump the chain over one link. The marks never line up exactly right. For sure though test spin it a few times each time by hand like you've been doing.

On a side note, how far extended is the tensioner? Like, remove the spring first, and then thread out the tensioner and count the number of teeth exposed or measure the distance. It's a good indication of the amount of wear on the engine.

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Going to do some work on the car tonight. Just enough to turn the crank by hand to make sure the timing marks are all set. It seems as though a lot of people have been running into the issue of getting the marks even when the already lined them up. I know the first time I did it last month, I ran into the same issue so I had to keep resetting it and turning the crank by hand to make sure the marks were all lined up and timing was dialed in. That was kind of a pain because the exhaust cam barely lines up with the mark on the bearing cap. Might try to tie string to the open ended wrench then loop the other end of it to the exhaust stud to make sure I don't have the issue again. Wish me luck.
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:32 PM   #51
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Hello guys thank you for your input and support. Got the car back together and running smoothly. i took it out for a 100 mile spin and all was well. Now check engine light, no rough idle and no noices. Mabe some lifter tick but I'm not sure because I'm use to listening to lifter tick when due to working on a lot of cars that have been poorly maintained. But the car pulls good and everything. Here is the but.......
I took it out for a spin yesterday and then I heard a thunk........... and the ABS TCS and Brake lights came on........ so hearing that thunk and seeing those lights come on, I inspected the serpentine belt and I saw the belt hanging (still on by half) off the power steering pump. I did a bit of research and I see that these issue are completely different. I see now that I have to replace the idler pulleys and inspect the gear ring on the axle since I heard that thunk noise right before the lights came on. hear is the thing though. If the gear ring snapped, Isn't that part of the axle?
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:48 PM   #52
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It's more likely that something happened to an abs sensor.

Replace the serpentine belt, but be sure to give the pullies a spin to see if they sound old. If they sound good, maybe just take some degreaser to the timing side of the engine to be sure they're not greasy.


Now, if both things happened at the same time, it's likely something kicked up in the front passenger wheel well, and hit the abs sensor and knocked off the belt.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:47 PM   #53
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belt has 100 miles on it. I figured i replace it with a new one since I had the old one off anyways (lot of threads visible). I will give the belt a clean and take a look at the ABS sensor. I'm getting better treaded tires put on tomorrow so while that is being done, I will inspect the sensors in the front. I was also thinking about putting a washer on the upper idler pulley because when I took that off I remember dropping a washer for that pulley and never finding it. I assumed because it was so thin that it would not make a difference. I will clean the pulleys first before I go deeper into it.
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