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Old 12-08-2015, 02:31 AM   #21
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I was hoping for pictures of the engine damage, not a deceased rodent..
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:42 AM   #22
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You'll get one when I continue working on it. Block is OK. Piston ring at the top is done for the piston had pits on the top. I can post a picture of that when I get home.
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:07 PM   #23
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Piston number 4
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:27 PM   #24
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ouch
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:10 AM   #25
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Oooo baby that got hot! Is the car tuned?
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Old 12-09-2015, 03:27 PM   #26
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The car isn't tuned at all. Mike D asked me when I called and asked for his opinion on the matter. So if the car is tuned will it run hot a majority of the time?
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:52 PM   #27
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The car isn't tuned at all. Mike D asked me when I called and asked for his opinion on the matter. So if the car is tuned will it run hot a majority of the time?
'Hot' is kind of relative. What you had there is nuclear meltdown hot. Tuned hot is more like a pizza oven lol. I've ran stock B205R pistons to 1000C over many hard pulls and never had an issue, many people will say that's too hot.

I'd guess that you leaned out pretty bad--which is exactly what you'd expect with your finding the fuel pressure regulator reference line chewed through.

That said, the stock calibrations aren't generally very forgiving or particularly talented at saving things (obviously). I purchased a stock Viggen 'vert a few years back that had a fully broken piston due to knock. The MAF was partially bad, and the driver obviously didn't have an ear for recognizing trouble. In that case, the MAF read good and was just slow, transitionally. As an experiment, I adjusted the tip-in fuel enrichment just a tad, and also decreased the transition time from closed to open loop, and that fixed it. I'm still running the same MAF in that car today, haven't even cleaned it, stock pistons, no problems.

The guys that did the original calibrations seemed to be so concerned with increasing MPG's that they took away safety margin that would normally protect things under partial-component-failure conditions.

In your case, my guess at is:

Primary Root Cause: chewed-through FPR manifold reference line
Contributing Cause: overzealous factory calibrations aimed at efficiency

If you were working it hard, past vacuum conditions in the manifold, it would have been running lean, guaranteed, which is in line with what you found.
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Old 12-20-2015, 04:36 PM   #28
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I'm still having the rough running issue. Car is back together and running but running the same way. Grounds are all set and solid. Changed mass air flow, and DI as well but I'm still experiencing the same problem. I'm going to go to the shop because I forgot to compression test all 4 after putting the engine back together. I'll let you know what's up. I'm up for suggestions and an offer of a helping hand since my friends leave me high and dry saying they will be there
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Old 12-20-2015, 07:35 PM   #29
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Is the timing right? You can be off a tooth on a cam and it turns by hand ok (doesn't hit valves) but then misses and runs bad. Checking compression isn't a bad idea.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:08 PM   #30
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I checked compression again and cylinder 4 is still showing zero across tho board.
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Old 12-21-2015, 03:52 AM   #31
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I'm pretty sure timing is set. All marks were lined up. No leaks from the block and head mating. I'm suspecting something in the head is not right. When I took it off valves for cylinder 1 and 4 were completly closed on exhaust and intake side. Cylinder 2 and 3 valves were just about ready to open. I inspected the cylinder walls, they were not scored surprisingly. I in spected the head and I did not see anything suspicious that would bring me to deem the head to be done. I'm at a loss for words right now. But I have a suspicion that there is something happening in the valvetrain for cylinder #4. The compression test concluded the same results where cylinders 1-3 had compression of 175 give or take but #4 is at 0. Not even a little jump of the needle.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:57 AM   #32
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Did you take any pictures of the head?
Where did the Head gasket fail? between 3 and 4, or outwards?
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:42 AM   #33
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My bet is burnt valve/seat right now if didn't inspect. What did you do exactly, replace a piston and a quick ball hone?
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:45 AM   #34
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It failed at 4 going out. I replaced the piston only, no hone because there was no scoring or damage on the walls that I say with my eyes or felt with my fingers. Rplace chains as well since I was that deep in there. I did not replace valve seals because I assumed the damage was the gasket and piston being damaged. If the heat was that much I assume I gotta take the head off again and look at the valves for cylinder 4 and the seats.

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Old 12-27-2015, 08:24 PM   #35
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My bet is burnt valve/seat right now if didn't inspect. What did you do exactly, replace a piston and a quick ball hone?
I was reading the WIS instructions on how to replace the seats and the compression of the seat and that other thing is confusing my a little. Would anybody suggest a workaround for this?

I guess I need to compress the spring with air and at the same time use a special tool to take the seat out.

I also forgot to mention from the start of this whole issue, whenever I started the car, it made a weird noise every time it was cranked. It was like a weird squeak noise just before the car fired up and idled terribly.

Just let me know your thoughts.

Thanks in advanced.

P.S.

Valve Guide metal vs Spark Plug Metal, Which one is stronger. I ask because if the plug metal is stronger, is it safe to assume that a valve guide melted? When I took the head off the valves were seated fine on both exhaust and intake side.

Last edited by SS929k; 12-27-2015 at 10:33 PM. Reason: P.S.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:22 PM   #36
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I took the head off again and I'm in the process of taking the valves off but I'm at a stand still. Is it possible for the valves to come off without the use of that special tool? Also would it be a good idea to get the head machined since I had a heat issue?
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:30 PM   #37
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I have my head baked/planed any time the head comes off. Especially if there was an overheat. My machine shop used to charge $99 for a bake/plane, and $350 for a full rebuild with new seals/5-angle, and stud removal.

You don't have to tear it down to see if there's a sealing problem. Remove the cams, flip it over, and fill the combustion chambers with gas. You'll know right away if one isn't sealing.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:31 PM   #38
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changing valves on these cylinder heads is a rather difficult task without a special tool.
I myself have not seen a rental valve spring compressor tool available that would work. I actually took a deep well socket and cut the sides out of it so I had access to pull the keepers off the top of the valve spring. then I used a "C" clamp to compress the valve spring.

it was a very tedious task. I would love to find a valve spring compressor tool suitable for the job.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:47 AM   #39
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I made a tool similar to what Johnny said, but I used a hard plastic pipe and a drill press.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:55 AM   #40
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A tool like this would be suitable, but you would need to mount the head to a hard surface and make sure that the valves aren't opening as you compress the spring.





New Engine Overhead Valve Spring Remover Installer OHV OHC Compressor Tool Set | eBay
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