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Old 06-07-2015, 07:36 AM   #1
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Desperately Need Help - '03 9-5 Aero 2.3t 107k miles

Hi Everyone,

I desperately need help fixing my car. I've already put a lot of money into it, but the problems have gotten worse. I've been dealing with:

Engine stalling (while moving or in neutral)
Misfires
Surging
Engine cranking but not turning over

There seems to be no consistency in the occurrence of these issues. None of the mechanics that I've taken the car to have any idea what may be wrong. One told me that the car is leaking oil internally and that I need to replace the entire electrical system. The next said there was absolutely nothing wrong with the electrical system when he checked it. I replaced the plugs, but it turned out there was nothing wrong with the old ones. The fuel pumps are absolutely fine, and there's nothing wrong with the battery. I've been getting the following codes:

P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0440 - Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction

P1300

I have no idea where to go with this.

Also, it needs a rear alignment, and I was told that only certain mechanics have the tools needed to perform one on this car. Where should I take it?

Thanks, all, for the help, and take care.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:53 AM   #2
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Sounds like you need to find a trusted Saab specialist. There is nothing overly complex about these cars but some things can be a pain and prove troublesome to people not familiar with saabs to diagnose. Any competent alignment shop should be able to perform a four wheel alignment. There is nothing special or out of the ordinary about the suspension.

Check over a few things to start. Make sure you have the factory specified spark plugs. Get your manual out and look it up, then verify by removing a plug to see it matches. This is very important and easy to check. Start here.

If you have a known good ignition module I would try it. This is referred to as a DI and is on the very top of the engine held in by four torx bolts. You will need to remove it to get at the spark plugs.

Spend some time checking all the vacuum hoses. Remove any plastic covers so you can see and follow all the lines. Look for deteriorating hose and some that may just be off.

Google limp home mode and verify that your car is not in limp mode.

Start with those basics. Also post where you are there may be some recommendtions for a good Saab specialist In your area.
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Old 06-07-2015, 02:22 PM   #3
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I'd unplug the main harness connector on the firewall, under the hood and see if your pins are all green and corroded. Bad map sensor could explain almost all of your problems, but I've never seen one fail on a 9-5, that's why I'm steering you towards a connection problem first (which I've seen many times on a 9-5)

I'll agree with TBOY, your location would be real helpful here.......
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:59 PM   #4
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I've seen posts from users that were having similar issues with their cars and found that replacing the throttle body solved their problems. Given the cost of the unit and the cost of installation, I'd rather not spend money on it until I know for sure that it is the cause.

I live in Houston, Texas, and have taken the car to several mechanics (one of whom represented himself as a Saab specialist but did not prove to be much help with the car). I brought the car to a Sears autobody shop for a 4-wheel alignment; the mechanic told me that they could only align the front wheels and that only a "specialist" could perform the rear alignment because the vehicle's design requires specific tools to remove some nut... I've had a hard time finding knowledgeable mechanics.

The problems have lasted too long and are too severe to be from LH mode. One mechanic was able to reset the codes, but they came back within a week.

Could the problems be hose-related? Would replacing the throttle unit be the best way to go?
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:29 AM   #5
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0106: Unplug the MAP sensor at idle. If no change look for the hose from there to the manifold. If motor changes clean the MAP.
0440: Remove the Purge Valve and shake it. You should hear a rattle.
1300: Almost always the DIC is failing. They are cheap in the US, not so much elsewhere. You must get an OEM unit however made by Wells. However, you, and most of those in the forum, don't bother to tell us your location.
1st thing: Disconnect you Neg Battery Terminal for 15 minutes to clear your codes.
Aliment is a specialty shop issue. Google "Saab 9 5 rear shims" and you will learn all about it.
You need to do a very through visual inspection of all hoses. Many of your issue seem vacuum related. Any competent tech can do a smoke test.
I would also recommend a new Crank Position Sensor.

Last edited by Mike Brennan; 06-10-2015 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:03 PM   #6
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Update location in profile, maybe we can recommend someone in your area


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Old 06-12-2015, 03:24 AM   #7
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Do people just keep posting without reading the thread?

Quote:
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I live in Houston, Texas
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:38 AM   #8
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DIC: Here is all you need to get a new OEM for less than 200.00.
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Old 06-12-2015, 06:13 AM   #9
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The MAP *AND* evap codes make me think that the hose on the back of the TB that goes to the Evap is loose/broken.

I'd be looking at a severe vacuum leak at the manifold/Throttle body.

The car's 12 years old. if the rubber hasn't all rotted yet, it will soon. replace as much as you can.
Have the car smoke/pressure tested. you may find a lot.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:36 AM   #10
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don't bother checking your vacuum lines, just replace them. By the time you pay someone to smoke test, you could have just bought a roll of hose and replaced everything yourself. A visual check is just that, but doesn't pick up smaller cracks in old hoses.

You should be able to do them all in a half hour, it is super easy and may fix your issue. If you plan on keeping the car, just buy a new DI. If it doesn't fix it, you'll have a good spare for the future.

In summary, these cars are very sensitive to ignition modules, vacuum hoses and spark plugs
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:34 AM   #11
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Yeah. That's better advice. buy a bunch of silicone hose and re-run everything.
The original rubber hoses don't take well to the dry/hot underhood. They'll crumble/break pretty easily.
Look up the "mods" like skipping the BPV solenoid and the "bolt mod" for the WG solenoid.
do 'em all at once, and maybe check PCV hoses, too.

after 13 years, if you haven't replaced it yet, you should replace the ignition cassette. for $150, you can't really go wrong. keep the original one as a spare if you'd like.
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Old 06-14-2015, 11:54 AM   #12
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after 13 years, if you haven't replaced it yet, you should replace the ignition cassette.
I don't know what has and has not been replaced; I purchased the car used.

I'm going to look into replacing the TB.

Can anyone offer help on getting an alignment? As I mentioned before, it seems that only certain mechanics are capable of doing the rear alignment.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:12 PM   #13
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I used these guys a few times back in the day for a few things; they're a little pricey but they never messed anything up. I don't know for sure that they have their own alignment rack, but I bet they'll know how to get it done.

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Quote:
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I don't know what has and has not been replaced; I purchased the car used.

I'm going to look into replacing the TB.

Can anyone offer help on getting an alignment? As I mentioned before, it seems that only certain mechanics are capable of doing the rear alignment.
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