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W/M Kit Suggestions...

2K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  viva_brasil 
#1 ·
Going to buy a W/M kit. Looking for something to cover all bases, but I don't want to spend $600. I am specifically curious about 1) Required Flow rates/nozzle sizes for 30psi Big T28 and whether a non-progressive type system will work 2) The best kit for the money (cooling mist has a CPU controlled one for $280 for example) 3) Whether it is worth it/general pointers.
Thanks,
-Cm
 
#3 · (Edited)
What about 2nd place? I'm looking to spend less than 350 shipped...
Also, how hard is it to dial in?
-Cm
EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snow-Perfor...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2666921e&vxp=mtr
yah? It says it is limited to 25psi..does this mean it only reads up to 25psi? Or does it konk out past that?
I can live with it if it only reads to 25, then I can make it a little heavier flow @ 25 so it's perfect at 28.
 
#4 · (Edited)
very easy to dial
1st knob is for maf or map (you want map ofcourse)
2nd knob is at what psi you want it to begin spraying
3rd knob is at what psi you want it to have max flow

it just means by 25psi it is spraying at 100%

ive done some looking around, and i can say that snowperformance was the best bang for your buck
to get the same things from an AEM kit you paid more than double the price
 
#5 ·
I just realized something; If I have to splice this piece into the MAP sensor wires, forget it. Pressure switch or nada. From your wording it would seem that there is a feed wire and then you have to tell the controller what it is obtaining boost from. 'Dis true?
-Cm
 
#6 ·
Devils Own is also another option. Priced pretty competively too.

Will likely be putting that on the RS6 at some point this summer.
 
#8 ·
Do some reading on evom regarding kits. There is a very good thread with videos of the spray and leakage of certain kits etc, that finally quelled some of the argument over meth kits being good or bad with how many bad kits were blowing motors up.
 
#10 ·
Do you have a link or any pointer? I've spent some time there as a lurker just getting info and the only threads I've seen are questions like the one I asked here today and answers like the one I got here today, with references to SRT's (FML) or Subie's.
And as for the vac line--sweet!
-Cm
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have a Snow Performance Stage II in my 1994 Comm Ed. Happy with performance and price. (Now if I can only get the car back on the road.) I mix my own W/M with bottles of Heet and distilled water--50/50 mix. I used my windshield washer bottle as the reservoir.
 
#13 ·
Bought it! En-route!
I'll post pics of the install and let you know how it goes! BTW do any of you have a reference point at which I could set the flow vs boost at? Makes tuning a HELL of lot easier!
-Cm
 
#15 ·
Mine's 8 and 20, but I'm only boosting to about 22. Not sure how to tune NG cars, but being able to advance the timing is what gives a W/M equipped car the real kick in the pants. Just don't run out of juice.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Ive got an LED on the dash that tells me when the pump is on, but I don't have a signal to tell me if my tank is getting low. I'm anal though and check it all the time. I also keep a gallon of juice in the trunk. A tank gauge or low signal would tell you if you sprung a leak quicker than the casual checking for sure.
 
#19 ·
This puppy is LOADED. Factory direct, and overnight free shipping. Comes with a low level warning. WHERE do you think a good spot to tap the injector into is?
-Cm
 
#20 ·
As close to the throttle opening as possible. The more turbulence and and less restriction, the better.

This is mine on my c900. You can also see I also put some wire loom around my hoses to be sure that I don't get and punctures from engine vibration rub-through.

 
#22 ·
What jet you guys running? There is the 175 the 375 and then a ridiculously huge one. The 175 is rated to 350RWHP and the 375 is good to 450RWHP.
-Cm
 
#23 ·
What does your setup look like guys? In trying to setup the whole shebang, I've decided to re-route the battery to the trunk (proper place for a battery anyway) and have faced many difficulties with this process alone. Now I've got to consider where to put the thing, as I only have 10 feet of tubing and 20" of feeder tube. This means that in all likelihood, the reservoir, pump, and controller, will all have to be within feet of each other. No trunk mount. I use the car for its cargo capacity a lot, so, no back seat mounts.
Won't reach the trunk no matter what :(
-Cm
 
#24 · (Edited)
I used the stock washer fluid reservoir in my car, but I never drive my car on crappy days or use the windshield washers, so that made the choice easy. Some people who run their W/M off the windshield reservoir actually use a washer fluid with a high methyl alcohol content so that they can use it for both.

Again, I'm dealing with c900, but I put my pump on the frame below my air filter so I only had to run a short line to the nozzle, maybe 18-20". I had hose left over when I was done. You can buy just the hose on ebay if you need more: W/M hose.

Can't recall what size nozzle I'm running. I bought a couple sizes on McMaster Carr I think for like $5 a piece--it's been a while.
 
#25 ·
I've got everything running. Ended up running it from the back passenger seat foot well. It is being extraordinarily finicky. The engine boosts fine and doesn't bog or anything, but lordy, talk about a power drop :( I've advanced timing, but now, according to wideband, mixture has tanked to the 9's. Makes a lotta stink and noise, but is S.L.O.W. Running ~50/50 mix w/m.
-Cm
 
#28 · (Edited)
How many degrees did you advance timing? You're running too rich - which is why it's sluggish and stinks, it should only drop AFRs by 0.5 or so. You may be injecting too much and/or too soon.

You are basically adding an extra injector, if you inject too much without additional boost you'll run rich and lose power.

You can also dial back fuel a bit to "replace" it with the methanol, and you can see some gains that way (instead of adding more boost).
 
#27 ·
So...despite the slightly highfalutin nature of the posters, seems like a check valve and 100% methanol is needed. I don't want 100% methanol in my car, trunk either. I know the super-sequential-magic-silver-bullet-thingamabob electronically controlled solenoid for $$$$$$$ will work better, but, dammit, this is getting expensive.. BTW my AFR is not tanking after WOT, it's during.
Also, I've read more methanol enriches the mixture, but 50/50 is the best compromise.
Lastly, how the hell can I tell 15-30% of fuel? I have no idea how to relate the two aside from deriving a formula for duty cycle/rated flow of injectors and then blind correlating that to the "175ml/min" the w/m claims...nominally.
-Cm
 
#30 ·
I've been in a stink and left courtesy by the wayside: thank you for all your links and help! That said, I did advance timing by about 1* in the high boost areas and by 2* in the lower (.92-1bar).
-Cm
 
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