Saab Link Forums banner

Another Holset thread

62K views 562 replies 64 participants last post by  comtrang 
#1 ·
So when Vigge made a thread back in 08' about his new snail, I got sucked into the movement and have been following it since then. Just figured it was time to make my own thread with all of the info on my own setup rather than stuff it all into Vigge's. More so it can be documented for others who are looking to put a Holset on a stock internal, 2.0 NG900.

I'm 19, building up student loans and working through college, and really testing my credit to get this project finish. Save the criticism for later, please.
At this point, I'm still in the process of getting all the parts - almost finished - but when I get home in a month from school is when the work begins. I'll update this as it goes, and try to get pictures of whatever necessary.

My current setup is the everday stage 3 which includes a 3" JT, huge ebay intercooler, Jak Stoll tune, and Spec stage 3 clutch. I'm almost moving from a completely stock NG900 up to this new level so that first test drive is gonna be a really, interesting one. I'm gonna keep my hopes 'low' at about 400whp, but hopefully I'll reach at least that. W/M injection will help with my lower torque numbers (vs 2.3L setups) probably soon after this is all taken care of.

So here's my Holset HX35 the day I bought it.





The plan was to clean it up a bit, weld the internal wastegate flapper shut to use an external, and have it mounted to the beautiful piece that came from "Reindeer Performance" in Finland, thanks to Vigge:





Other changes will be of course a Walbro 255, injectors - to either Siemens deka 630cc's or the new 1000cc's from the same series that just came out - , and a JZW tune. Another thing is modifying the exhaust to work. The HX35 comes with a v-band outlet but my dad wanted to try something else so in the end it'll connect like this:





No issues with sealing, no clearance issues, just simple and clean. It's 3" and I still have a 3" 90 degree stainless pipe for the other flange to be welded onto. As you can also see, my dad cleaned up the compressor housing a bit when he had a minute so that's a nice cosmetic fix.

That's all for now, unfortunately. My car and I head home on May 9th so hopefully soon after, my dad and I get to work on this. Any feedback or suggestions appreciated, hope I can start updating this with progress in as little as a month.
 
See less See more
6
#40 ·
For sure sometime this summer, but no word on when exactly. There's just one detail that's getting sorted out that I'm not at liberty to discuss at the moment but will as soon as it's figured out. That will be one of the larger updates to come.

Haven't had time to do much, finally found some summer work and my dad has had lots to do in the shop. EWG and wideband came in, though, so I suppose I can throw that up for the hell of pictures:

 
#43 ·
Nope, sounds like you've got me beat. I'm certain I won't be finished by then. I'm not ready to make the switch quite yet. Yours sounds promising, though! I HOPE you get yours done before mine because otherwise we won't hear from you for a couple months :D
 
#54 ·
Not to be a spoil sport, but yes, it CAN hurt to try. If you are find with welding and do all the correct prep with the tubing you will be fine, but if you end up with even a small chunk of slag in there it can cause havoc with your turbo. Avoid that, and it should be fine!
 
#63 ·
Update

So after spending some time trying to find a place that would make a hydraulic line for me, I gave up because it turns out no one in Kansas City has 14mm banjos and no one wants to use ones that I buy to make their own line because they're not their own. Understandable enough.

So, today I picked up this:



Does anyone think that this, compared to a banjo bolt, will cause oil pressure concerns?
 
#65 ·
Great! Thanks, man ;). Gonna send you a PM shortly about something else, by the way.

Well here's how it looks now. Again, that's not my motor and I know there aren't really any changes to whatever I put up before. My dad's shop has been swamped ever since I've been home from college - I'm good luck I guess - but if there's an open lift next week, I think the tear down is gonna start.

 
#67 ·
I had mine welded in right after the turbo, right in the 1st bend in the downpipe post turbo. You can also weld them in one of the runners (like for #1cyl.) which is supposedly a little more accurate, bu basically as close to the engine as possible.The closer you are to the engine the more accurate it will be.
 
#75 · (Edited)
#78 ·
i would put the egt bung in the runner for one of the middle cylinders. they are usually the ones that lean out first, so thats where the most critical data will come from.

i would NOT put it after the turbo.
 
#81 · (Edited)
Downpipe complete. Welds will be finished once mounted on vehicle.

Fits straight onto existing JT 3" system so it's as simple as pulling out the JT downpipe and popping on the new one. Not too bad, considering that it's about $50 worth of metal, including the $25 flex pipe :)



 
#85 ·
Holla!

Plan for tomorrow - borrow a 12 and 14" fan to see which one wants to work. Order an EGT probe/gauge. Weld in a nut for O2 sensor and wideband O2 sensor.

At this point if I don't do at least something everyday, I'll miss my deadline. My dad's already trying to convince me to leave my car in KC over the school year and keep it as my toy, so I'd like to get this is up and running with enough time left to make sure everything is safe.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top