as far as having a engine with over 130k on it,it would be safe to have the cylenders honed right?
does this setup look right for a engine build in my viggen?
Its best to have the bores checked at a machine shop and then have them hone it professionally. If you want to just hone it, that would be advised so the new piston rings get a good seal
I did not think the 9k oil pan would work with dp, but let us know if it does because it holds another qt of oil!
You may want to get the block decked and head resurfaced as well to ensure you get a nice flat mating surfaces.
BTW: why the Forged Pistons on a B234 motor??? Unless your going to go to very high HP numbers, the B234 piston are very stout and should be able to handle just about anything you throw at them....seems like money not well spent.
i need rods for shore and i figured i would go with the b234's but why not just use the whole block,my 235 block is a mess and rusted out through the coolant manifold.i just dont feel safe with useing that block on what happend.and i cant ifnd a low millage 234 engine ..ahhh so what should i do?hlep me get the viggn going pleeeeeeeeeaaaaase im dieing here. i wonder if nick could wip somthin up for me
If you are going to re-fresh the b234 block, the mileage is not so important as you will put in new main and rod bearings and new piston rings!
I bought a high mileage, 180k b234 block, had it checked at the machine shop and the bores showed almost no wear at all and the engine builder said the second compression ring was just getting broke in The cylinder bores measured on the low end scale of the wear, they were basically as good as a new cylinder and no where near the end of the wear limit.
We had them honed, put in new total seal rings and replaced the rod and main bearings and the motor ran great!
In a way, high mileage blocks are superior to new blocks because they've been heat cycled.....that is unless you heat cycle the new block before the build up. I suggest going to the first over bore with the pistons on the used block to ensure the piston bores are dead on.
how come your using the 234 timing cover and sump? seems an odd choice to change the whole auxillary belt setup for the more complicted 9k style. also the sump pan on a 234 is massive compared to the 235 and is designed for an engine that slants backwards ie 9k it wont be right in your viggen.
as far as a water pump i need a t7 pump correct? also for ordeing the timing chain parts ect.should that be 235? or are they the same? and as far as using cam gears.......i have the t7 gears and they are fine.i will swap the cams out since the engine will ocme with them...anyone in va that wants to build this with me?
ok im getting a bit confused here but if you want a motor that just goes straight back in your viggen you will need just the b234 block, crank, rods and pistons everything else comes off your viggen. if not you can bolt what ever you like on.
as for timing kit the cam timing gear is the same, but the balancer shaft kit is different between the b234 and b235.
the main bearings are the same regardless of the engine and iirc the big ends are also the same. im guessing you get piston rings with your b234 je pistons so that doesnt matter.
the oil pump is different on the b235 timing cover also.
yes,i will use the 234 oil pump
235 pan
234 timing cover then? and 235 guide?why is this
cam gears are the same
t7 head with t5 cams
will the 234 valve stems fit the t7 head?maybe i can port and polish the head after all
ive got the 234 block i picked it up yestedray from delorean THANK YOU! for coming through
you cant use the 234 cover as all the pulley mounting points etc are different. so you must use a 235 cover which houses the 235 oil pump.
im not sure why but the balancer shaft gears are different between the 234 and 235. im going to say no to the stems as the valves, seals, springs etc are all different between the 235 and 234.
Sounds like a complete hassle, but to each his own. If you already have the 235 block/internals/externals, why are you so bent on the 234? Nick/vigge and others are running a heck of a lot more hp then 400 on the 235.
i feel safe usingthe 234 rods..everyone seems do be doing fine with them ,ill getthe pistons after the machine shop checks my cylenders.the 235 block is non reusable.that makes more sense
i will be doing the head on myselfand instaling th engine,should i use a 9-3 and 9-5 book for this? or one for the 9000
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