There's the welcome wagon for ya.
Bottom-line is that you have to trace the problem back to it's start.
There are advanced ways that a mechanic with all the right tools do it, and the ways a backyard guy can do it.
You need to be sure the car has spark. flip the ignition cassette over, stick plugs in, and crank it over. you should see sparks jumping across the plugs.
You need to make sure there's fuel at the rail. head to Autozone and pick up a fuel pressure tester. Should be cheap, and screws right onto the schraeder valve at the fuel-rail. you'll know right away if there's fuel-pressure, as turning the key primes the pump/builds pressure.
To see if the injectors are firing... you can crank for a longer-than usual time, and smell the tailpipe. you'll smell the raw gas.... Or remove the ignition cassette/plugs and crank, and check for gas in the cylinder. (easy-enough with a flashlight.)
Once you know which part of this (very simple) cycle is broken, you can work down that road.
As Drew so eloquently stated, It's not a common thing for ECU's to fail in a way that burns resistors, and beyond that, with the amount of people able to re-flash an ECU with the correct codes, trying to repair one is not usually done. I'd contact one of the many guys on here that are offering tuning on the side, and see if they'll sell one of their known-good cores, married to your car.
2008 9-5 Aero-1995 900T 'vert