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Performance Modifications for the 9000 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the Saab 9000. This may also include suspension.

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Old 01-30-2012, 05:06 AM   #141
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i gotta ask...was it necessary to remove the stock ic and shift the condenser for the new intercooler install? it looks like its mounted in front of where everything was in the first place
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #142
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Lol it was the best easiest idea I could come up with
you gotta do what you gotta do man. lol.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:17 PM   #143
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neccessary? that i dont know! but you can probably run pipes around idk... but its not hard to remove the stuff at all, trust me its easy. and like i said we can meet up and do it together id be happy to help
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:02 PM   #144
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i call this part of my build thread up shits creek without a paddel lol

options?
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:08 PM   #145
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i call this part of my build thread up shits creek without a paddel lol

options?
those the fuel pump tabs/nipples?
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:56 PM   #146
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the pressure one, because i wasnt paying attention this happenned. im trying to find them locally before i order online
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:12 PM   #147
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I had to order online and make it fit. Its not the most fun you will ever have but you can fix it.
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Old 02-04-2012, 07:06 PM   #148
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i baught some fuel line and fuel clamps im going to slide the rubber over the old hard plastic and fit a new valve in the rubber clamp clamp, forget about it
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:51 AM   #149
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I'm assuming it's already too late for this now, but for future help on this what we usually do when they break at the shop is get a replacement of course but then you cut the hardline plastic down to the last rib of the 3 but make sure to leave the 3rd rib. It acts as a starting point for putting the new one on since the opening will be flared, we have a special tool that makes it easy by clamping the hardline and slowly pulling it on but I'd imagine it could be done with a certain pair of pliers as well if you took your time wiggling it in gently. Vaseline also helps, I even apply to the rubber o-rings before putting them back into the fuel pump so it might come out a little easier if I have to do a future repair.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:15 AM   #150
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makes total sense, but yea to late i cut them all.. im pretty sure my plan will work tho or pretty hopeful
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:44 AM   #151
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I was so afraid of this happening to me when I did my fuel pump.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:53 AM   #152
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i did the fuel pump put it back together to make sure the pump worked, started it went back into the back to tighten the ring and was talking to a fren and i didnt know what to say, it kind of made my heart drop
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:34 AM   #153
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Before taking out the fuel line I spray WD-40 all over the valve and O-rings. Then I pull straight up. The WD-40 acts as a lubricant and pulling straight up ensures the valve wont break. After breaking my first valve I always take forever to remove these valves now.

I know its a little late now but this is just for future reference.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #154
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #155
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that last blurry pic is my line fix
5/16 fuel line, with fuel clamps! works great
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:13 PM   #156
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Pulled the head off easy job, but i broke the exhaust side guide on the way up!


i purchased the exhaust and tensioner side guides the bottom guide crank seal thermostat seal and water pump gasket

anything i need to know while im doing this?
anything else i should buy
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:21 PM   #157
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im gunna be using the chain i had from my spare rebuilt head, there both in good shape
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:03 AM   #158
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no one?
what parts should i buy and what should i look out for when i pull the timing cover?
any i purchased the timing chain guide i will be reusing a chain with 120k not the same chain that was in there a newer one.

what are the specs on the timing chain tensioner?
do i have to completely remove the balance chain?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:26 PM   #159
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Balance Shaft Delete In Full Effect, waiting on the crank seal and the car should be running within the week with the hy35.. i know mike lost oil pressure with the delete, i baught the GS block off plate and , removed the chain cut the swivel guide to leave in as a spacer, should i tie strap em to each togehter? i put all other guides back anything i should be worried about
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:24 PM   #160
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Ok, i need some help
I installed the holset the oil feed line doesn't reach, which steel braided lines do i use?
Ths fan doesn't fit which universal fan should i order?


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