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9000 Aero project - 400+hp for cheap

63K views 176 replies 61 participants last post by  Area6 
#1 · (Edited)
I guess I've gone and done it!

This weekend I pulled up 426whp and 429wlb/ft in my 1995 9000 Aero. It's come a long was since it was an auto trans 200bhp 222lb/ft car!

A bit of history, since I never really made a "project thread" for this car. There are lots of little threads dating back to Sept 2005, but nothing to chronicle all of it in one place...so here we go:

Bought the car in september of 2005 - rust free with 185,000 miles.




next step was to replace the automatic trans with a manual trans, I did this a mere 4 months after buying the car (January 2006) :lol:

Next I bought $250 worth of 3" tube and made a 3" exhaust system (February 2006)



Finally I got a Td04 15t to replace the T25 that was original to the car because of the original auto trans. At the same time I also installed a China-made intercooler, together they cost me $175. Took a while, but I eventually fount time to install it (March/April 2007)

At this point in time the car was over-powering the 1 year old stock clutch, so I had another purcahse to make. The clutch was $650 or so, installed it in April 2007



Next was stage 4 software from Jak Stoll, which I was very satisfied with. This kept me happy from August 2007, until November 2007 when I got a Holset HX35 for $200 shipped. This was intended for a different car, but that car ended up being wrecked in a race this September 2008. So, I installed it on the Aero along with a Walbro 255lph fuel pump ($150) and a set of Seimens Dekka 660cc injectors ($165) and an Innovate wideband ($260).



Car looks roughly the same on the exterior other than a custom grille, lowering springs and wider that stock tires.



I really don't have any photos of the turbo on the Aero, but I do have these videos and graph of the dyno pull!

4th gear pull




The car has since been re-tuned a bit to take care of the lean condition over 4,000 rpm, I've also turned the boost down a bit!

I'll try top keep this updated on any changes I make to my setup, or any issues I encounter. I plan to overhaul much of the suspension because there are some tired bushings with 230,000 miles on them. The shocks and struts are new, as well as the springs, but I have a feeling the stock sized race pads will not be able to keep up on the track anymore - so something will need to be done about that as well!

Other future items include engine oil cooler, 3 bar MAP sensor, I might try a 3.5 or 4 bar FPR as well, right now I don't see a need, but its worth looking into.

edit: Grand total so far for the power end of this project is just under $1900 including the computer stuff (BDM, power supply, etc). $1850 just for the hardware.
 
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#7 ·
Fuel pump was preemptive, did not know when/if the original had been replaced.

But eaither way, yeah, it was pretty cheap! I did update the cost a few times aleady, forgot about the wideband, which was important!

The nice thing is that I collected the parts for a while, so none of the expenses were huge. Worst one was the clutch!

more info on the IC,
I'll try to find the original thread for that...maybe I'll list the original threads for some of the other junk too.

never opened the engine?
As Palmer said - I only opened it up a few weeks ago to replace the head gasket, which looked to be original with 230,000 miles!
 
#10 ·
1st thread ever on TSL
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5806

Purchase of the 5 speed to replace the auto
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6948

5 speed conversion
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7069

Purchase of 3" exhaust junk
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7428

1st dyno - just 3" exhaust & t25
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7945

200,000 miles - wØ؆!
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10081

Stainless brake lines
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12464
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12581

TD04 + conversion notes + install- ended up selling one to pay for this, so it cost me about $25 in the end :lol:
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14026
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15854
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16284

Intercooler tubing
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15836

Intercooler + A/C removal (no good photos of IC installed, but info on size, etc)
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14567
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18030

Clutch issues!
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16463

New Clutch!
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16898

Thinking about, then buying a Holset
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13911
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23182
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23308

Gone and broke another transmission!
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28387
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28532

Walbro 255
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28907

HX35 on the Aero!
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31755
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32411
http://saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33670
 
#19 ·
The only thing I can say negative about this is the lack of A/C but Im sure with a smaller intercooler that wouldn't be a problem. I am definitely going to look into this. JK, I will be talking to you soon.
 
#22 ·
Grabbed a few photos last night in prep for the Showcase/Feature/Car-of-the-every-few-months thing...

I'll post just one for a preview ;)



I have some more photos to take as well. I really miss driving this car from time to time. I realized that I do like the 9-3 or the BMW for day to day running to the store type driving though.
 
#25 · (Edited)
225/50 they are probably as big as you can go with the stock offset. They are very close to touching the trailing arms in the rear. On different wheels/different offset and backspacing I know you can go wider.

I have a second set of wheels, they are 7' wide and require spacers in back anyway, so I will see about fitting a 245 in there. it will be tight, but I'd like to be able to make it happen. Those wheels are very ugly, so pretty much would only go on there for track or autocross duty.

By the way why you don't drive you car everyday JK?
Fear of rust taking away something that I have a lot of time and blood into. There are a few spots of rust, one on a door, another just ahead of one of the rear tires popping out from under the fender trim, and one at a seam under the car in the rear. I need to go and fix them all, one by one and I don't want them to get any worse. Salt = Death

I have driven the car in past winters, but pretty much put a stop to that last year. I have a 325xi and a 9-3, both of which are easier to drive in the snow. The Aero has no ABS and it with the amount of power I have to shift around 2,000 rpm in the winter if I don't want the tires to break loose in front :rolleyes:
 
#28 ·
no A/C in mine, however if I was not in a rush I could have made it work with A/C. The main issue was a pressure switch or some sort of sensor on the condenser. Physically there was enough room for the core, just some end tank interference.

The core is 31" x 12" x 3" A little narrower might have worked better.

here's the thread I made after I bought the intercooler...
http://www.saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14567&highlight=intercooler
 
#29 · (Edited)
#31 ·
No, I used the spacer so the compressor housing would clear the exhaust manifold!

The spacer sits between the turbine inlet and the exhast manifold outlet. Without it the compressor housing hits the manifold and does not allow the turbo to bolt up to it.



 
#34 ·
The car went under the wrench this weekend for an undetermined period of time for undetermined changes and slight upgrades.

There are a few things I have been unhappy with since tossing in the humongoturbo. Some of the issues I plan to address are the following, plus there may be other things I encounter "while I'm in there" ◄ I hate the amount of $$$ required to use the WIIT method :(

-Rewire the Walbro 255lph pump with the correct plug for the pump, replacing the spade (♠) connectors and "while I'm in there" upgrading the fuel hose I used for the retrofit and changing the small plastic T fitting to a larger brass fitting and reconfiguring it so the feed flows directly though rather than making a 90° turn.

-Replace water pump and renew all related O rings. I had been leaking from the water pump to block fitting for quite a while, one of those things I just never got around to taking care of

-Fabricate a fan bracket for the slim A/C fan that I am using right now for a primary cooling fan. Currently it is "installed" with one torx and some zip ties :lol:

-"Knife edge" the divider in the turbine housing inlet on the HX35W. I had cut the divider down to allow the wastegate to function properly and stop the massive boost creep I had when I first installed the turbo. "While I'm in there" I will clean up the turbo a bit more and finally measure the turbine and compressor wheels (no extra WIIT $$$ there!)

-Fabricate a custom front lower motor mount to replace the one that asploded/broke and leaked its nasty thick viscous goo all over my sub-frame. I found this "while I was in there" removing the leaky water pump. Yay.

-While I'm in there I want to reconfigure the charge pipe going from the compressor to the hot side of the intercooler. Right now the one in there was hacked together from left over bits and pieces of c900 and 9000 tubing I had laying around. I'd like something that looks cleaner.

-Since the turbo, water pump, and fan is out of the way and everything is out of the way I would like to clean up the rust on the front side of the motor and slap a coat of POR15 or satin black paint of some sort on there. I'll just brush it on, doesn't have to look good, just want something better than the rusty surface that is currently staring me int he face.

That's "it" for now, unless getting further into this presents me with more opportunities for great success, which I am sure will happen :rolleyes:
 
#73 ·
From the list I made a while back...

-Rewire the Walbro 255lph pump with the correct plug for the pump, replacing the spade (♠) connectors and "while I'm in there" upgrading the fuel hose I used for the retrofit and changing the small plastic T fitting to a larger brass fitting and reconfiguring it so the feed flows directly though rather than making a 90° turn.
Done - easy
I highly suggest buying a the correct plug + pigtail for the Walbro 255, makes for a very easy/clean install the first time. I found one of the hard lines stating to kink, no good. I fit the new flexible line in a manner that should keep that from happening.

I was not able to find a suitable replacement for the T fittin on the pump assembly this time, so I will have to go back in there again if I feel the need to "fix" that.

-Replace water pump and renew all related O rings. I had been leaking from the water pump to block fitting for quite a while, one of those things I just never got around to taking care of
Done - annyoing
Eeuro decided to not ship one of the O-rings I ordered, so I had to buy a whole bunch and find soemthing that fit well enough. This job is probably a lot easier for me without the A/C compressor in the way, but it is still an awkward job.

-Fabricate a fan bracket for the slim A/C fan that I am using right now for a primary cooling fan. Currently it is "installed" with one torx and some zip ties :lol:
Done - easy
Not the cleanest looking bracket, but it will get the job done until I find a nice slim fan to fit in there. Function over form for this one.

-"Knife edge" the divider in the turbine housing inlet on the HX35W. I had cut the divider down to allow the wastegate to function properly and stop the massive boost creep I had when I first installed the turbo. "While I'm in there" I will clean up the turbo a bit more and finally measure the turbine and compressor wheels (no extra WIIT $$$ there!)
Not done - left for another time
I needed to buy a long hone to get this done, I was unable to find anything local and didn't want to wait around for an order from McMaster car. I still want to get this done, but I can wait.

-Fabricate a custom front lower motor mount to replace the one that asploded/broke and leaked its nasty thick viscous goo all over my sub-frame. I found this "while I was in there" removing the leaky water pump. Yay.
50% done
Turns out the motor mount was not broken, so I didn't replace it. I did however pull/cut/burn the rubber out of a broken solid mount in order to begin making a solid mount for that location. Right now its 1/2 done, waiting for some sort of bushing that I have not found yet.

-While I'm in there I want to reconfigure the charge pipe going from the compressor to the hot side of the intercooler. Right now the one in there was hacked together from left over bits and pieces of c900 and 9000 tubing I had laying around. I'd like something that looks cleaner.
Done - PITA
My larger charge pipes can DIANF, next time 2.5" all the way to the TB. I also failed at correctly inventorying my stainless tubing before digging into this an essentially passing the piont of no return. I made what ended up being a pretty odd looing pre-intercooler charge pipe out of stainless. It fits better than what was there before, but it took way to long to make.

-Since the turbo, water pump, and fan is out of the way and everything is out of the way I would like to clean up the rust on the front side of the motor and slap a coat of POR15 or satin black paint of some sort on there. I'll just brush it on, doesn't have to look good, just want something better than the rusty surface that is currently staring me int he face.
Not done - fail
Took too much time with the charge piping, had to get the car running.
 
#37 ·
Have not done it yet, more important things come up usually. We did obviously install the battery in the trunk of the '91 9000T Lemons race car, and I would go about it the same way.

I believe the kit was 2ga wire, run the power from the trunk to the lug on the starter that the normal under-hood cable would run to, then I believe there is a smaller wire that goes to a power block, I know I just reused something for that, as the only wire we bought was the big 2ga stuff.

For ground I think I just grounded the trans to the chassis and ditched the end of that cable that would normally go to the negative terminal on the battery, then you ground the battery to the chassis in the trunk with a 1-2' 2ga cable.

Its the same way you're relocate a battery in any car. No issues.

Make sure you use good gromets anytime the hot cable passes through any sort of metal opening like in the fire wall. Don't want any arcing going on!

I'll probably buy some 0ga cable that we have at work and do it to this car eventually, but this is very low on my list right now.
 
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