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Old 10-05-2011, 08:34 AM   #1
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Car jerks when accelerating and cuts off when full throttle

I have a problem with 1993 Saab 9000 cse turbo.

I have two problems, and I think the problems might be related.

First, when I give full throttle, the car cuts out.

Second, when driving, when I let of the throttle and then accelerate the car jerks.

The check engine light would flash 5 times, which I found out online it means bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). I looked and checked for TPS on the throttle body, and there is none. I have searched this forum and other and found some infos.

So my question is are these problems related, is the bad TPS causing all of this?

In order to change the TPS or fix this issue, do I need to replace the Throttle Body? (New Throttle Body (900$)

Can a Saab mechanic fix this problem for less?

btw..The TCS and ANTI-LOCK lights are on.
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:09 AM   #2
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You have a problem with your Traction Control System (TCS).

There is no separate Throttle Position Sensor in your car, it's integrated with the Throttle Body.

Is your car in Limp Home Mode?
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:31 AM   #3
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"When the traction control system on Saabs fail they typically go into limp home mode. Limp home mode causes the car to work only in a dimished power capacity. The name actually says it all. This mode will enable you to get home but that is about all. The car will only run about 30 MPH or so."
Is this what Limp Mode mean? if so, then no. There is no problem with it. Last time I drove 160km/h on highway. So I guess its not in Limp Mode.

I will make a video of the problems tonight and post it on youtube.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:22 PM   #4
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Also is Throttle Body the TCS?

Im new to Saabs, I have never seen so much electrical in a car. I have always owned Civic and Corolla. Saab's is very new to me.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #5
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TCS = traction control system.

TCS is a function of the electronic throttle system. People seem to use TCS interchangeably or as a catch-all for the entire electronic throttle system (ETS).

You might also have an issue with your boost pressure control solenoid/valve. That might be causing the car to over-boost. But my bet is that you will find the main fault to be somewhere within the electronic throttle system.

The electronic throttle body DOES have a throttle position sensor, but it is integral, not able to be replaced on its own.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:50 PM   #6
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People seem to use TCS interchangeably or as a catch-all for the entire electronic throttle system (ETS).
Guilty.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:26 AM   #7
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Glad my car doesn't have tcs... Because with my luck it would fail, but only months after I bought it
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:04 AM   #8
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i too have tcs and if i were to guess id say your first problem is the turbo not keeping up with the motor? unless it really cuts out (hard) then you are overboosting like jk says (watch turbo gauge)
...
dosnt hurt to get your codes cleared see if your car runs better.also if you are letting off then getting back on quick thats beating your car hard gotta remember its a heavy car it takes a second to change your momentum
im not defending tcs but holy shit you feel like you have some power when you cross 2 lanes when tcs kicks on
vac TB sucks tho
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:29 PM   #9
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I really wish I can fix this problem. As JK said earlier, it could also be APC valve. I took off the APC valve this morning, and cleaned the holes with Carb Cleaner, then let it dry for 4 hours, and put it back in, its still the same.

It could be APC, because there is too much boost when I accelarate. Maybe someone can tell me how to bypass the APC to test it.

Anyways, I'm going out to record a video of the problem I'm experiencing with this car.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #10
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Here you go guys. this is the video. sorry for the bad quality. Watch from 40th second.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:43 PM   #11
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That is definitely overboost fuel cut. Something with the wastegate/apc control.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:55 PM   #12
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FWIW, when we bought my brother's '93 Aero with the same TCS/ETS system as your '93 CSE, it would consistently overshoot boost pressure and hit fuel cut like that, the problem did turn out to be the throttle body itself. We replaced just about every engine sensor, BPC valve, MAP sensor adjusted wastegate, yada yada yada.

Ours did NOT have a fault code stored like yours, it's very possible that is your problem.

Cleaning the BPC valve often won't fix a bad valve, they short out internally, you may want to try substituting another one and see if it does the same thing.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:32 PM   #13
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Grab onto your rod coming out of your wastegate wit pliers see if it moves in and out. I'll put my money on a stuck wg
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:41 PM   #14
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İ hope its not the throttle body but possible it is. Because throttle body will cost me 900$ new, APC valve is 200$.

Can any mechanic shop diagnose the problem, or only saab mechanic? The closest saab shop is 450km away.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:48 PM   #15
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Listen to me brotato .. unless u know its not the wg it can be a 5 min fix
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:22 PM   #16
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Listen to me brotato .. unless u know its not the wg it can be a 5 min fix
İll give it a try. Where is the wastegate located? Easy to access?
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:18 AM   #17
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A Saab specialist with old enough diagnostic tooling will be the only place that has a prayer of fixing that. I can always get them fixed, but easily half the time the owner decides it's too expensive to justify on a car that old since they can sort of still drive it around.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:27 AM   #18
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Yep original ISAT factory tool for the win. Or at least another lap or two..

Keeping the pneumatic system healthy does keep them alive longer.

Had a -92 Auto with dual ac in this week.. No TCS faults!
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:37 PM   #19
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nicat hopefully you are fixed but if not try this. your 9k will be a mirriored image.. meaning your wastegate is sticking out to the right not the left like the picture. anyways grab the pivot point with adjustables or locking pliers.. and free it up. if the rod/ diaphram moves freely in and out( remember its under tension so should be hard to push in, and will automaticaly pop out) if it is free the first time this is not your problem. if it feels stuck wiggle in and out until it frees . dont break anything though.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:41 PM   #20
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shit sorry your 9000 may not be a mirriored image im thinking 9-3..... hope you know/see what your looking at
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