SPG Cameltowed

[coreyeroc]

1986 SPG // No Start Problem

Car is currently with "The Saab Doc" here, locally. Ran into a no-start problem one morning. Car started right up as normal (as normal for the last 6 months), and then I accidentally killed it pulling out of the driveway, and there she blows. Hasnt started since - turns over just fine, nothing else has changed.

Prior to this, fixed the alternator lead, and associated stuff - all was well. So thats not the issue, neither is the battery, belts, fuel pump, etc.

The "Doc" is telling me that Im getting a problem with voltage going to the fuel pump intermittently, and a few other choice relays as well. Again, this is an '85-'86 wiring harness, so Im basically shitting myself right now.

He said this has something to do with (and what he'll have to rebuild by hand) is some link, or connection to the PCM ?? What in the eff is the PCM? Thats the part hes trying to find, so he can rehab whats in my car now.

Anyone have a clue what he's talking about, or have you ran into the same problem(s)?

Thank you for any, and all help.

Saabs Love Trucks

[SPG-GASM]

PCM also known as the ECM.

[VI009DZ]

Give it a squirt of starter fluid....pull a vacuum line off somewhere on the intake manifold near the throttle body, give a nice good shot of starter fluid down into the intake, put the vacuum line back on and try to crank.

If it fires, you have a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't, you have an ignition issue.

[Moonracer]

Check the 32 pin connectors on the driver side foot well. In the early years they had a big problem with pins backing out causing intermittant no starts. I believe it's the white connector iirc.

[coreyeroc]

thank you so much.

Tried starter fluid days before, no difference - so must be ignition.

Moonracer - he did mention a while back about the same pin plug, and the 25th pin (red, maybe?), is one of the bad spots on these apparently. Is this the ECM / PCM hes referring to? Is this what hes talking has to be rebuilt?

[Moonracer]

Not sure which pin number it was but they were the larg gray wires in the white connector. We used to have to clean them all the time. The wires would either push out or get corroded and melt the connector housing. This in turn would make you believe there was no signal out to the fuel pump.

[coreyeroc]

Thank you, Moonracer.

Just guessing here - ECM - Engine Control Mgmt.???

I guess this is what The Doc is having to fix/rebuild. WOuld running a jumper to a toggle for the fuel pump work?

[coreyeroc]

helped Doc rebuild PCM/ECM last night, got all the wiring back in order.

Now just waiting on an Ignition Control Module to get here so we can finish it up.

By the way - does anyone here have a spare/good '85-'86 ICM I could buy? Would just like to have an extra sitting around.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[mike d]

is it getting a tack signal? it may be something bad with hall effect in the distributor. this would cause the pump to stay off, and no spark

you can check many of the assories though the 6 pin diag port in the fuse panel, you just need to know how to work it

My vote,, time to T5 it,,,, its the best thing you can do to 85/86 c900s

[coreyeroc]

ive been feverishly reading up on the T5 conversion. Seems easy enough, just gotta start stockpiling a few parts I guess. Might as well do the head swap too then, right?!? ...here we go.

[BurnsSide42]

I have a hand full of ICM - let me know if you need one. Shipping plus $10 seem fair?

[mike d]

its not to bad of a job, one solid junkyard day can get you almost everything you need to T5 a car, No head swap needed to run the car, so i would wait on that

Corey, give me a call if your still in the area, i work out of nashua now and have done a few T5 swaps,,

mike d

[coreyeroc]

Great, thank you Mike. Could you PM me your number? BurnsSide32 - let me check on my order status to see when they're shipping. I think I have 2 on the way already, but thats an awesome deal. Thank you.

[northerner]

I had a intermittent no-start fuel pump problem on my '85 900T that turned out to be the over-boost safety switch. It seemed to test OK, but there was enough resistance in it to cause the relays to get goofy. I jumpered it and it's been good ever since. It seems they are NLA new; I haven't searched for used one yet.