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Old 11-04-2009, 09:45 AM   #1
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Skipping the coolant bypass valve.

So, Eeuroparts has the euro-spec heater-core hoses, and I'm Going to go that route.
I had the upper hose pop yesterday when I downshifted to 3rd to pass someone, and ran up the revs.

anyways.
my bypass valve hasn't failed, but I'm a GIANT fan of removing over-complicated parts to make things more-reliable.

has anyone done it yet?

I'm going to do my best to get good photos, and post 'em up for y'all.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:00 PM   #2
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it's not the BEST pictoral, but here's what I got:

Here's the mess before I started tearing it apart. Nothing special, here:


this is the coolant bypass valve, and the mess of hoses that go along with it.
it's against the firewall, right under the brake master cylinder.
mine was only held up by a ziptie. this leads me to believe that it had been replaced once in it's lifetime.
here it is, mounted:

here it is.. on it's way to the trash.



and... the 2 simple hoses that replace the rat's nest of a bypass valve:


it turns out that mine WAS leaking. There was some coolant up around the cap. tossing it turned out to be a good idea.

I had to remove all of the crap on the driver's side.
all rad. hoses, the intake pipe, and the wiring harness for the inlet pres. sensor, DIC, and intake temp sensor.


when it's all removed, you can clearly see the inlet/outlet of the heater-core:



I don't have any pictures of it back together.
it's as simple as re-connecting hoses.
you also have to take a "T" off of the vacuum port for the BPV solenoid.
I would recommend getting hose clamps instead of re-using the spring clamps that saab put on from the factory. they work well, but there's no REALLY easy way to get in there.
you can NOT get to the valve/heater-core from underneath like you can on a 9-3.

Just take your time, and remove everything in your way.
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Last edited by g96nt; 11-05-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:04 PM   #3
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Nice. I'm going to do this on my c900 next week, except just use copper pipe.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:04 AM   #4
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I didn't realize the classics had the same setup.
innnnnnnnteresting.
wear gloves. my engine bay is relatively clean,and I was covered in disgustingness in seconds.
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:20 AM   #5
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not a bad idea if you want heat all the time. you a/c isnt going to blow as cold any more. that cuts the hot water to the heater box while that a/c is on. cause the 9-5 heater box doesn't have a door to cut off the air flow through the heater core like the 9-3's it uses that valve to PWM the coolant valve, witch controls the heat. id sugest you go dumpster diving for those hoses and replace the valve. they came for the factory with a zip tie on them if its been replaced the tie wouldn't be there any more. i guess the only thing that that would really affect is the a/c's performance

just a little note too.... i know its alittle late now but doing that job is 1000x easier if you take the wiring harness off the fire wall (like a ten minute job to replace the coolant bypass. two 10mm and a couple clips) instead of everything off the head

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Old 11-09-2009, 07:34 AM   #6
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just a little note too.... i know its alittle late now but doing that job is 1000x easier if you take the wiring harness off the fire wall (like a ten minute job to replace the coolant bypass. two 10mm and a couple clips) instead of everything off the head
yeah I beleive that's what I did when I did mine, didn't take very long at all.
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:17 AM   #7
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so, you're suggesting that the european cars don't have a/c? they just run heat all the time? I believe the blend door is what makes the "decision" between hot air off of the heater-core, or cool air from the a/c system. pulling this won't disturb the heat, and cool air functionality.

beyond that, I'm perfectly happy with how it came out... I was in there because one of the hoses burst. I was pulling that crap off, if I wanted to, or not. I had purchased both sets of hoses, and decided that removing the system was the best option for me...

all will be well, I'm sure....
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:23 AM   #8
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so, you're suggesting that the european cars don't have a/c? they just run heat all the time?
Actually, at least with the OG9-3s, it's kind of known that at least some of the European cars don't come with an AC compressor. The belt length for non-AC cars, 1805 mm, is right there on page 250 of the manual.

Not sure about 9-5s, though.
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:28 AM   #9
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that hose was probably for a euro non ACC spec HVAC. there are two verions listed in WIS 1) heating and ventilation system w/ a/c 2) heating and ventilation system w/ a/c and ACC. you may be fine but buy the looks of it it would have been better to just replace the valve as Saab intended


....ya they did make a MCC 9-5 that hose is listed in EPC for MCC 9-5's. but hey if its working for ya good for you! i just wouldn't do it

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Old 06-24-2010, 12:17 PM   #10
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so, you're suggesting that the european cars don't have a/c? they just run heat all the time? I believe the blend door is what makes the "decision" between hot air off of the heater-core, or cool air from the a/c system. pulling this won't disturb the heat, and cool air functionality.

beyond that, I'm perfectly happy with how it came out... I was in there because one of the hoses burst. I was pulling that crap off, if I wanted to, or not. I had purchased both sets of hoses, and decided that removing the system was the best option for me...

all will be well, I'm sure....
Any updates on this? My heater core feed line burst last night, which was quite impressive. I fixed it by cutting the line short, and took the BPV connector hose from the valve to the hard pipe, and slipped it over the head -> now smaller/shorter line. And now, two hose clamps.

I replaced the missing pipe for the BPV with a nice cylinder of duct-tape to direct the air back to the air inlet. I was quite proud of my workaround, so I could get home.

But, it is a workaround -- And I'm scouting eeuroparts now, and I'm all for removing needless hoses. My question is this: Since I have removed 80% of the AC system, will this simpler solution have any impact on my car? 9-5, ACC, etc. I can't imagine it will, but Craig perhaps you can chime in!

Cheers,
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:31 PM   #11
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I love my heater bypass valve, it's the only reason I have A/C at all since my heater core is jammed on hot at the moment.
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:34 PM   #12
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So, since I've removed most of the AC system (ie. Everything but the compressor; Because you need that pulley for belt routing; which is annoying), is this going to affect me in any way, aside from saving some money, and possible hose failures?

I just ordered the non bypass valve hoses, but I'm prettysure I can just cut on a bit shorter to replace the one that is hacked together at the moment; But when I do them tomorrow evening, I just want to know the pros/cons to removing that stinkin' valve.

Cheers!
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:08 PM   #13
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raven is correct.
If you have blend door issues, this will exhaggerate them.
if your blend doors are fine, you'll be fine.

I don't miss the valve at all.
I was able to clean out the engine bay some, and make the car more reliable at the same time.
I'm thrilled with it.

I'd do it again, given the choicel
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
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raven is correct.
If you have blend door issues, this will exhaggerate them.
if your blend doors are fine, you'll be fine.
Exactly. As far as I've been able to work out, the bypass valve only kicks in when you set the ACC to LO. It might also do it if it decides it can't make it cold enough, but that has not happened to me, I just got baked. Needless to say, I've been driving around since the beginning of june with my ACC set to LO. Damn swedish heater.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:46 AM   #15
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Is it true that the A/C will not be as cold with this?
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:52 AM   #16
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Is it true that the A/C will not be as cold with this?

Think of it this way: Since the auto manufactures are always tying to lower cost they would not have included it just to "make it more complicated". This is not an emissions component. It was needed for full ac function in the warm climates.
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:04 AM   #17
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Okay. A/C is a huge concern of mine now that I have a fully functioning ice cold car. It is crucial in the 90 degree traffic jams.

I almost wish I could pump just a little bit into the front of the car so it can be happy too.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:45 PM   #18
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Think of it this way: Since the auto manufactures are always tying to lower cost they would not have included it just to "make it more complicated". This is not an emissions component. It was needed for full ac function in the warm climates.

Nick,

So it's safe to go out and throw my new hoses in, once the car isn't 100 million degrees. My AC is disappeared; And Maine doesn't really require AC anyways, for the most part. (Maine has a saying: 'Yeah, she's got 4 - 60 AC -- Roll all four down and drive 60'. Yes, we're all that hick

Thanks for the clarification on the valve usage; I asked a saab place today, as well, on my way home, and they were advising against it, but I couldn't get a solid reason why.

Worst case scenario, I put it back in when I do a waterpump in a few weeks.

I'll take pictures of my awesome heater core hose temp fix too; It is sturdy as get out, using only 'on the car parts' and a bit o' duct tape...
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:41 PM   #19
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Also , a quick question. My brain wants to believe that the top pipe on the heater core is the inlet, and the bottom, the outlet. I'm going to set it back up this way; as I've got everything removed.

is this correct? I figure I've got a 50/50 chance here, and outlet + gravity speaks to me...
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:52 PM   #20
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Hrm. So my logic makes sense until you realize that the shift linkage bit will rub throughout gears if it's setup as outlet on bottom.

Suggestions!!
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